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"Now look here young chap", the captain said to me as I disembarked the ship, "Don't go poking your nose around where it's likely to get you into trouble!". He always was unduly concerned for my welfare.

Leaving him aboard to continue his hydrographical studies, I set foot with trepidation on the strangest group of islands anywhere in the world. I must say, having been sailing around South America these past few months, it's a joy to make land. this place is a naturalist's playground.

It's September, and the month belongs to the dry or 'garua' season, which lasts from July through to December. The rest of the year constitutes the hot and wet season, and doesn't suffer from the fog (garua) which is prevalent amongst the archipelago's higher reaches.

"And stick to the paths" he shouted, as an afterthought!

This is good advice, because there are strict designated trails which must be adhered to in order to ensure the fragile eco-system thrives. Human interference can easily upset the delicate balance, so always do your research about the do's and don'ts before arriving.

I was surprised to see so few people. September is regarded as the low season, and along with April, May and October there is generally a decrease in visitors. However these months are still a great time to visit as the mammals and land birds are especially active particularly in their courtship rituals.

Snorkelers seeking the amazing underwater world would be advised to visit between December and May when the protected waters are much warmer and the general ambiance benefits from more tropical climes. If you want to get up close and swim with the seals it's worth noting that their mating season is August to November.

Whilst they love to frolic like playful pups, don't consider getting too intimate. Any attempted physical contact is frowned upon and could be dangerous, especially on land when the big bulls are active. Besides, their breath smells shocking so all kissing is off!

Each island has something unique to offer, and regardless of the season, the abundant wealth of wildlife is astonishing. So whether it's giant tortoises, sea-going iguanas, boobies, flightless cormorants, penguins or seals, they are all just a small part of the incredible flora and fauna inhabiting these precious and priceless jewels.

"Why so glum?" the captain asked when I later returned to my cabin.

"Well, it would be good to stay a little longer" I dared to venture.

"Oh very well" he replied, with a jovial slap on the back. "You can have five weeks. But don't go filling your head with any crazy ideas, young Charles!"

He's a good egg is Captain Fitzroy of the Beagle. I shall mention him in dispatches.

Footnote: On 15th September, 1835, the British survey vessel HMS Beagle, captained by Robert Fitzroy, arrived in the Galapagos Islands with a young naturalist aboard. Charles Darwin spent five weeks exploring and cataloguing his observations. 2009 is the 200th anniversary of his birth, and the 150th anniversary of the publication of "On the Origin of Species", which would reveal to the world his Theory of Evolution.

Learn more about this author, Bar De Ness.
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