by Marlin Bressi

Created on: February 05, 2009

Anyone who has ever colored their hair red knows how fast this color fades and how hard it is to care for. Unlike most shades of blonde or brunette, reds lose their vibrancy and depth after only a few weeks. In order to care for red hair properly, one must first understand why a vibrant shade of red is so hard to keep in the hair.

The primary reason for this is based on the size of the red color molecules. The larger the molecule size, the faster it will fade with washing and excessive heat styling. All haircolor, natural or artificial, is a combination of three colors in varying proportions: blue, red, and yellow. Any color can be produced by mixing these primary colors. For example, an ash brown shade consists of more blue and yellow pigment, and less red. Natural redheads have more red and yellow in their hair than blue. Blondes have more yellow, and less red and blue in their hair.

In terms of molecule size, blue is the largest, followed by red, and then yellow. This is why blue fades faster than any haircolor. When hair is washed, the alkalinity of the shampoo opens the hair's cuticle, allowing pigment to escape from the hair. Since blue and red color molecules are larger in size, they escape first. Cool shades of red have both red and blue pigments, which further compounds the problem.

This is why a color-care shampoo is essential for red hair. I'll be the first to admit that not every salon haircare product is necessary for healthy hair, and that some store-bought haircare products do a fine job; but when it comes to protecting and maintaining red hair, there is no exception. The right shampoo and conditioner will be the most important step to care for red hair.

When choosing a color-care shampoo, your best bet is a sulfate-free product. There are many sulfate-free shampoos on the market, and your stylist will be able to make a recommendation based on your specific needs. It is recommended that those with red hair do not shampoo more than three times per week. If you are one of those people who feel the need to wash their hair daily, skip the shampoo and stick to water and conditioner; you'll still feel "clean" and you won't strip your haircolor. Red hair should always be conditioned. Conditioners seal the hair's cuticle, thereby locking in the molecules of color.

There are also color-enhancing shampoos and conditioners. These products actually contain red pigments which will help revive fading haircolor. These products are a great addition to your haircare regimen, but they should not be used immediately after a color service, since they seem to work best when the haircolor begins to fade, which is usually two or three weeks after your salon visit.

Perhaps the best way to keep red hair looking fresh and vibrant at all times is to return to the salon every few weeks for a color glaze. This involves applying a translucent colored gloss over the hair, which will restore lost pigment and provide crystalline shine. The products involved are usually ammonia-free and do not damage the hair. In fact, most glazing products contain conditioning and strengthening ingredients; it is like receiving a semi-permanent color and a conditioning treatment all in one step.

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