by Marlin Bressi

Created on: January 29, 2009   Last Updated: January 20, 2012

Permed hair requires special care, otherwise a head full of curls can turn into a head full of frizz. Perming is a process where a chemical is used to change the hair's texture. This is accomplished by either an acid-based chemical such as glyceryl monothioglycolate, or an alkaline chemical such as ammonium thioglycolate. These chemicals break the chemical bonds inside the cortex of the hair. When the stylist applies the neutralizer, these bonds are then re-formed, allowing hair to take the shape of the perm rod which the hair has been wrapped around.

Because of this chemical process, the hair is in a very vulnerable state immediately after a perm. This is why a good stylist will recommend that hair not be shampooed in the 48-72 hours after a perm service. The hair will require this much time in order to restore its pH level. Since shampoos are alkaline in nature, washing the hair within three days of a perm service can result in loss of curl, dryness, unmanageablility, and frizziness.

The steps you take in the first three days of having a perm will determine how long the perm will last and good the hair will look. If possible, the hair should be allowed to air dry during this time period. Excessive heat from blowdryers and curling irons can shorten the life of the perm, as well as dry out the hair. After a perm, a stylist will often have the client sit under a hooded dryer rather than drying the hair with a blowdryer. This is recommended because a hooded dryer distributes heat evenly, meaning that a lower temperature can be used to dry the hair.

After three days, permed hair can be shampooed, but only with a specially-formulated shampoo for permed hair. These shampoos are ultra-mild and contain special moisturizing ingredients, such as alpha-hydroxy acids and essential fatty acids. If a shampoo for permed hair is unavailable, a color-care shampoo may also be used, since it is also formulated to be mild.

Under no circumstance should a deep-cleansing or clarifying shampoo be used on permed hair. These shampoos are too harsh and will not only strip valuable moisture from the hair, but can significantly reduce the life of a perm. Research has proven that with proper care, a perm can last 8-12 months. Women who report loss of curl or frizziness within a few months of receiving a perm have either disregarded their hairstylist's advice or haven't been given the proper tips for how to care for permed hair.

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