The Portuguese island of Madeira has long been a popular holiday destination for high society. European royalty, Winston Churchill and many Hollywood stars have favoured it. Much of the shooting of the famous film, Moby Dick, took place there.
The island depends on tourism so you will find hotels to suit all budgets, cafes, bars and restaurants around every corner. Funchal, the capital, is a perfect place to stroll by the sea or sit with a beer and watch the world go by. Just make sure you don't miss a visit to its colourful market, or a tasting of the Madeira wines in the St Francis Wine Lodge.
The Flora
Although it is a volcanic island, close to the more barren Morocco and the Canaries, its climate is very different. It has more rainfall and is covered with lush vegetation. Because it is so mountainous, the island has three different micro-climates, at different levels. So the plant life varies as you climb its windy roads. First you'll see banana plantations, above that it becomes cooler, but warm enough for the vines that produce the grapes for Madeira's famous wines. On the way to the highest peaks you go through National Parks with laurel woodlands, plus eucalyptus with its strong roots that help prevent landslides on the steep slopes. And from the barren peaks, you get the most stunning views imaginable, as long as they are not shrouded in low-lying clouds.
Some people choose Madeira for walking holidays. Many trails follow the levadas, the intricate irrigation system that ensures water in the right place at the right time, especially for the cultivated areas on high ground. Others want to visit its wonderful gardens. Funchal has many delightful public parks, and its Botanical Gardens are to die for. Orchid breeders open their greenhouses to the public and serve refreshments at viewpoints in their beautiful gardens. Up in the hills is Blandy's Garden, where camellia flowers bloom for many months.
Perhaps the best of all is the Monte Palace garden which celebrates the history of Portugal and its relationship with the rest of the world in garden art and planting. Take the cable car from Funchal's esplanade to reach it. Afterwards enjoy the excitement of a toboggan ride down through the steep streets, steered by a straw-hatted driver who will get you down safely.
The Beaches
But it's not ideal if you want a beach holiday. Pretty well all its beaches consist of large pebbles and volcanic rocks - really hard on tender feet. Water babies don't miss out though. There are basic and free municipal pools all over the place, or artfully designed ones with added facilities for those with more sophisticated tastes, and purses to match. Or you can walk out from the shore on short piers with ladders down to the sea for swimmers.
A couple of small beaches around the island have tiny squares of black sand. Calheta, a small town west of the capital, Funchal, even has some light coloured sand imported from Morocco, the closest mainland.
If you really need a fix of golden sand, you take the two and a quarter hour ferry crossing from Funchal to Porto Santo, one of the several islands that make up the Portuguese Madeira archipelago. This is where Christopher Columbus met and married his short-lived wife, the daughter of the governor of the island. Sadly, she didn't live long after giving birth to their son in 1479.
Porto Santo has about six long miles of sandy beach. Some people walk off the boat and immediately find a spot to park themselves for a day of lazing in the sun, cooling off in the sea every now and then.
Others head for the main town of Vila Baleiro, about a third of the way along the beach. If you swim on the way to Ponta da Calheta at the far end, you don't need to struggle with your modesty to change. The free facilities at Ponta da Calheta include showers and changing rooms.
From there, on a clear day, you can see back to Madeira. The view is southwards through the tiny gap between this end of Porto Santo and a small barren neighbouring island. And the O Calhetas cafe will serve up a delicious meal while you relax and savour the view.
Porto Santo is fast becoming a holiday destination in its own right. So, if it's a beach holiday you're after, why not arrange to stay there and take trips to explore some of the delights of Madeira itself? Or take a two-centre holiday with a few days on each island.