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surrounded by huge sand dune. Cabins on stilts, with balconies and small plunge-pools, on the edge of a cliff, look out across the wilderness to the dunes many miles away. We dropped the car at the thatched reception and were driven through the camp in a 4x4 to the lodge/bar for check-in. We partook in a medicinal gin and tonic and enjoyed the most memorable of sunsets, followed by an exploration of the stars with a large telescope, escorted by a member of staff (The sky is so clear and the light pollution negligible) A wonderful dinner was served to all the guests, with free wine (my favorite variety) The Wildernes Camp provide guides and transport to explore the dunes, setting out before sunrise and stopping for a picnic breakfast. Not much wildlife apart from the usual springbok, birds of prey etc. but the sunrise over the enormous dunes is stunning.

We drove on to Swakopmund, officially about 4 hours away, but we took 6 hours. Quite a tough drive through the dessert. We stayed at the Hansa Hotel overnight. The best hotel in a not very inspiring town. The town was completely closed apart for one bar. The hotel however was fine and its restaurant was really quite good serving local delicacies such as Kudu steak, and German style breakfast. The bar was very good too, with open fire and reproduction furniture in keeping with the surroundings (the hotel was built in 1905)

Next stop was Ongava lodge, next to Etasha National Park entrance, via Otjiwarongo and Outjo. Tarmac roads made the drive somewhat easier. Occasional Ostrich, kudu and monkeys kept us alert. On arrival at the lodge we were greeted by the friendly staff with cold towels and drinks then shown the thatched hut with balcony overlooking the water hole, then immediately ushered into a Land Rover for our first game drive. We saw a female white-rhino with a baby very near-by and the guide whispered, "This is the most aggressive animal in Africa. If it sees you it will attack... so, lets get out of the car, and who wants a Gin and Tonic?" We watched the sunset with our sundowners. A magical experience, and possibly the best G&T I have ever had. Back to the lodge and restaurant for dinner and more wildlife watching from the bar. From the lodge, during the day it is possible to do game-drives in Etosha park next door where lions, antelope, elephants, zebra, lots of birds and the occasional squirrel may be seen. You can also get just as good a view from the bar/lodge in wonderful relaxing surroundings. Absolutely wonderful place to stay.

On the way back home we stayed over night at Okonjima Guest Farm/Bush Camp. The accommodation is also in the form of traditional huts, with luxurious beds and bathrooms inside, but here the half mile walk through long grass to the lodge with a torch is even more traumatic. Leopards wander around the grounds freely, although rarely eating the guests. The same format of game-drives and communal dinners with sundowners while game viewing is used here, but with a different selection of wildlife. The hides for watching the leopards made viewing photography from close-up exceptional.

I would certainly recommend a holiday in Namibia to a keen wildlife enthusiast, while much more expensive (our trip more than 2,000 each for 10 days) than the cheapest safari/beach holiday in Kenya or Tanzania I would imagine it will give a far more memorable experience.

Learn more about this author, Andrew Porter.
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