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forest clearing has been done to achieve the present immaculate lawn setting of the major structures. Facades are cleaned of vegetation and protected from weathering by awnings. Tunnels are being dug into several structures to search out royal tombs and so piece together the history in more detail. Recently (1998) a treasure trove of pottery and jade ornaments was found in the tomb of King Yax Huh Mo, dated about 400 AD.

The lawn of the Great Plaza is dotted with intricately carved 3 meter high limestone statues, or stelae, which are stylized representations of Kings who ruled in the period 610 to 740 AD. What a pity Picasso never saw King 18-Rabbit in all his bizarre depictions!

Across the Ball Court is the famous Hieroglyphic Stairway leading up a major temple-pyramid. The 63 steps are ornamented by thousands of intricate carvings (glyphs), depicting the history of Copan. It is now protected from the elements by an extensive canvas awning which somewhat detracts from the aesthetics.

Overlooking the Great Plaza is the Temple of the Inscriptions where images of all the 16 kings of Copan are carved in bold relief, including Yax Pac its creator and final royal. What the tourist gets to see are the Principal Group of excavated structures within a 500 meter square area, securely fenced in. Beyond is 24 square kilometers of jungle with 3500 mounds containing ruins awaiting excavation and study. A museum block adjacent to the Visitors' Center explains all.

What amazes me is although the Copan Valley is known to have been inhabited from at least 1400 BC , that over a period of a few hundred years such a magnificent city could be created and flourish briefly, only to vanish swiftly beneath the jungle, like some exotic flower of human endeavor.

Further north on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula are Mayan cities that survived until the Spanish Conquest in the 16th century. The Spanish did not know of Copan because it was hidden by the jungle, safe from the ravages of colonists and adventurers.

Tourist Information:

The official website for Copan Ruinas is by the Chamber of Commerce and provides all the details for tourists regarding transport, accommodation, restaurants and local attractions. Your favorite Central America guide book is essential to take, so you that know where you are and have all the facts at your fingertips.

How to get to Copan Ruinas:

Luxury buses run from Guatemala City (5 hours), Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula (3 hours) all of which have international airports. Some tour operators run minibuses from the popular resort towns of Antigua and Panajachel in the Guatamalan western highlands. Domestic bus services are plentiful and cheap.

Finding suitable accommodation in Copan should be no problem. There are a dozen up-market hotels, a few of midrange and ample backpacker and hospedaje-type places. Consult the Copan website and your guide book. Stay a week and have a fantastic time!

Ends

Learn more about this author, Allan Taylor.
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