by Rebecca Miller

Created on: January 09, 2009   Last Updated: February 05, 2012

Stockinette stitch, also called stockinet or stocking stitch, is one of the first stitch patterns most knitters learn. It is versatile, attractive, and simple to work. Its plain, flat texture makes it an excellent foundation stitch for many other kinds of knitting, including cables, colorwork, lace, and slip-stitch patterns.

The right side of stockinette fabric has a smooth texture and looks like rows of interlocking Vs. The wrong side, or reverse side, has a pebbly appearance, like a very dense variation of garter stitch. This is because stockinette stitch is created by keeping all the purl "bumps" on the wrong side of the fabric. Some designs use the textured side of the fabric intentionally, reversing the right and wrong sides of the fabric; this is usually referred to as reverse stockinette stitch.

How to knit stockinette stitch

If knitting flat on two needles:

• Row 1: Knit every stitch.

• Row 2: Purl every stitch.

If knitting in the round on circular or double-pointed needles:

• All rounds: Knit every stitch.

Designing with stockinette stitch

Stockinette stitch is prone to curl at the edges, due to the difference in tension between the knit and purl sides of the fabric. In a project that is knit in pieces and sewn together, the curling is eliminated by seaming. Items knit in one piece will need a non-rolling border, such as a few stitches of garter stitch or seed stitch, added to the edges to prevent curling. A picked-up edging, whether knitted or crocheted, can also counteract the tendency of stockinette fabric to curl.

Because stockinette stitch is not reversible, it is best suited to items whose wrong sides will not be visible, such as sweaters or cushions. For a smooth knit texture on both sides of the fabric, try substituting 1x1 (k1, p1) ribbing. This trick is especially suitable for scarves and can even be combined with cabling to create reversible knit cables.

Though plain on its own, stockinette stitch makes an ideal foundation for more complex knitting. It is especially well suited for colorwork, since the right side of the fabric shows smooth, unbroken color changes between rows. It is also an excellent background stitch for lace, cables, and other stitch patterns, since intricate textures will not be lost against the plain knit background.

The direction of the ply in the working yarn will affect the appearance of stockinette stitch. Most commercially spun yarns will create fabric that looks like Vs on the right side, with both sides of the stitch lying on an angle. However, some hand-spun yarns are plied in the opposite direction, yielding a fabric that looks like stacked Ns, with one leg of each stitch lying vertically instead of being angled.

When substituting stockinette stitch for another stitch pattern, be sure to check both your stitch and row gauge. Because all the purl bumps are on one side of the fabric, stockinette stitch does not draw together as garter stitch or some knit-purl patterns do. This means that a stitch in stockinette is taller than it is wide. The proportions of the individual stitch affect the angles created by increases and decreases or by short rows, so be sure to knit a swatch to check your row gauge and make adjustments accordingly.

Stockinette stitch is almost endlessly useful to a knitter. Its smooth texture and utter simplicity make it attractive in designs. As a background for more intricate stitch patterns, it is unrivalled. Easy to work and incredibly versatile, stockinette stitch is an indispensable tool in any knitter's kit.

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