by Linda Ann Nickerson

Created on: January 07, 2009

Flat Felled Seaming Made Simple

What is a flat-felled seam? Look at a pair of denim jeans. The outer leg seam (and often the inner leg seam as well) is constructed with flat felled stitching. This method of garment construction offers the strongest seaming of all, while hiding the raw edges of the fabric and preventing fraying. At the same time, flat felled seams offer smooth and comfortable inner lines, as they virtually eliminate seam allowance bulk.

Sturdy garments made with flat felled seaming are likely to hold up to rough wearing and multiple washings.

Whether you plan to stitch up a brand new pair of pants, mend a jean jacket or even construct a super tote bag, flat felled seaming is a super stitching option.

How Do You Produce Flat Felled Seaming?

Begin by setting up your workplace. Besides a durable sewing machine, you will also need a heated steam iron and a sturdy ironing board. Set the iron to the appropriate heat setting for the fabric with which you are working. Fill the water receptacle on your iron, if your fabric content will allow for the use of steam.

Thread your sewing machine carefully, being sure to use the sturdiest needle possible for your chosen fabric. Check thread and bobbin tensions and pressure foot settings on your sewing machine.

Begin Your Flat Felled Seaming.

Start by placing the wrong (inner) sides of your fabric pieces together. (If you are stitching a pant leg or a sleeve, this will require the garment to be turned right side out.)

Using a standard straight stitch setting on your sewing machine, sew the fabrics together. Sewing patterns generally advise a 5/8-inch seam allowance, which is ideal for flat felled seaming.

Iron the seam after sewing. Trim on side of the seam allowance in half, leaving the other half at its 5/8-inch width. Open the flat, with the right side (outside) facing up. Press the entire seam flat, with the wider seam allowance on top.

Tuck the wider seam allowance over the narrower one, encasing it completely. Press the top (wider) seam allowance over the narrower one.

Topstitch the edge fold of the seam allowance, as neatly as possible, to complete your flat felled seam.

Seams Sew Simple.

Of course, proper fitting is extra important with flat felled seams. A smart sewer will measure carefully and try to tailor items as closely as possible before completing flat felled seaming, as these sturdy seams can be tricky to undo later.

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