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I have eaten trout filleted and subsequently smoked or pan fried. I have eaten raw trout cut in to virtually paper thin slivers and "cooked" in the citric acid of fresh lime juice. I have eaten trout grilled, steamed and poached. There is no doubt in my mind, however, that my favourite way of cooking trout is in aluminium foil in the oven.

Take a large trout - in this case capable of feeding four - gut it, wash it thoroughly and snip off the fins with a pair of scissors. Lay it on a large sheet of aluminium foil in a baking tray and stuff it with a small wedge of lemon, a small wedge of lime and a sprig of fresh dill. Season it to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Please do not add butter as this only makes the fish greasy and impairs the delicate flavours. Wrap the foil loosely around the trout, ensuring the package is sealed. Place in an oven pre-heated to 375F/180C/Gas Mark 5 for around fifteen minutes per pound.

While the trout is cooking, we should proceed to make our sauce, for which we will require the following:

1 cup of dry white wine

1 stalk of celery (very finely chopped)

1 shallot (very finely chopped)

1 clove of garlic (very finely chopped)

Pinch of grated lemon zest

Pinch of grated lime zest

1/2 tsp freshly chopped dill leaves or pinch of dried

The sauce should take around fifteen minutes to prepare (not including vegetable chopping time!) so time it around when you anticipate the fish to be ready.

Pour the wine in to a small saucepan and bring it up to a simmer. Add all the remaining ingredients, stir well and simmer on as low a heat as possible for ten to fifteen minutes to reduce.

Take the trout from the oven and carefully unwrap the package. Beware the escaping steam! In order to check whether it is ready, stick a skewer in to the thickest part. If you encounter resistance, this means that further cooking time may be required.

In order to serve the trout, carefully peel the skin away from the top side and "slide" two equal sized fillets of flesh off the bone, laying them aside on a plate. Gently lift the head and it should be possible to peel away the entire skeleton structure, right down to and including the tail. Half the remaining side of trout in to the two remaining fillets, remembering to peel away the skin.

Arrange some salad greens on each plate (I like rocket here but it is down to personal preference) and carefully place a trout fillet on top. Spoon a little sauce over and around the trout and serve immediately, accompanied by a glass of the remaining wine.

Learn more about this author, Gordon Hamilton.
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