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English garden, cottage garden, potager garden. Organic gardening, hydroponic gardening, chemical dependent gardening.
There are as many types of gardens as there are yards to grow them in. As many methods of gardening as there are people who garden. So, too, with starting seeds. There are MANY methods of growing plant from seed - each appeals to a different type of gardener.

If you garden like I do - digging in the dirt sometimes knowing what you're doing, other times just winging it - I've got just the method for you: WINTER SOWING. It's easy, very inexpensive and nearly fail safe. Sure, there are "mistakes" you can make and lose some germination but since you garden by the seat of your pants anyway, does it matter that not every single seed germinated? Probably not.

Reader beware though: the explanation of winter sowing that follows is my "lazy dirt diva" method not one from "a gardener". If you are an exact measuring, follow the rules, space everything perfectly gardener, this may not be up your alley. There are no rules, a few guidelines, some suggestions and places to find more information. If you're ready to dig in (pun intended), read on!

Let's start with an official definition so that you don't think this is made-up hocus-pocus tom-foolery. The following definition of WINTER SOWING comes from the USDA National Agricultural Library (http://agclass.nal.usda.gov/mt wdk.exe?k=default&l=60& ;w=97326&n=1&s=5&t =2

WINTER SOWING - A propagation method used throughout the winter where temperate climate seeds are sown into protective vented containers and placed outdoors to foster a naturally timed, high percentage germination of climate tolerant seedlings.

And now for the explanation for we "regular" dirt digging folks:

Winter sowing is the process of planting seeds in containers and placing OUTDOORS during the winter months. This is NOT starting seeds indoors under lights or in windows.

Many seeds need cold/warm cycles to germinate. When seeds are direct sown (into the ground) in the summer/fall, they get those cycles naturally.

Why winter sow? You get a jump start on spring planting, the cost is minimal, you get hardy plants (hey, they've lived outside all winter), you don't have to own a greenhouse and you don't have to find space inside your home for lots of little pots.

MATERIALS NEEDED
-good potting soil. No cheap stuff. If it feels like a brick when you go to buy it, pass it by for something better.

-containers...here's where it gets fun. You'll be making each container into a miniature greenhouse. You can use milk jugs, yogurt containers, stryofoam cups, paperpots, peat pots, produce containers (like from cherry tomatoes), take out salad containers, soda (pop) bottles, nearly anything that will hold about 3 inches of soil and isn't too shallow. Notice - no money need be spent on containers! Your recycling guy will love you - your spouse, on the other hand, will NOT enjoy the collection of used food containers you've saved.

-seeds....perennials, vegetables. Hardy annuals and annuals CAN be started outside but later in youre growing season when there isn't a chance of frost. Some of the websites provided at the end of this article will list seeds that have been successfully winter sown. One site lists growing zones as well.

-plant markers/label - permanent markers, craft sticks, label makers, etc.

INSTRUCTIONS
Check your growing zone for a good time to begin. In the cold winter climates, many people start in December or January once the weather gets cold and stays cold.

-wash containers

-punch holes in the bottom for drainage. You must ENSURE drainage or your seeds will just rot.

-if using milk jugs, pop bottles, cut them in half but don't make the cut go all the way around; leave enough so that there is a "hinge" and you can fold back the top half of the container.

-fill container with soil. You should have about 3 inches of soil in a container to allow for sufficient root growth. You also need to make sure there is enough "head room" for seedlings to grow.

-add seeds generously. Don't OVERseed but you don't have to limit yourself to 2 or 3 seeds per container either. You can always divide out the seedlings later

-label, label, label. I tend to label 2 different ways and place in different locations on the container. I label a craft stick and place it INSIDE the container and I use marker on the outside of the container. The last thing you want is to have seedlings and not know what the heck they are (been there, done that)!

-if you used milk jugs or something similar that is "hinged", close the container and tape it closed around the cut. Do NOT PUT THE PLASTIC TOPS BACK ON!

-if you used margarine tubs or the like, cut out the middle of the top, place clear plastic over your tub and replace the top (now just a ring) to hold the plastic in place. Punch holes in the plastic

-all containers need to be covered (baggies, heavy clear plastic, etc). They need to allow light and water (snow melt/rain) IN and they must have a way to respire (let air/moisture OUT).

Are you all done? Did you remember to label? Are there holes punched on the bottom for drainage? Holes or openings on the top to let water in? Okay then - put them outside. Yes, outside, in the snow, freezing cold, whatever. Do not cover them - they'll NEED to get wet. Protect them from blowing over and from curious critters (I put them in a milk crate or one of those clear underbed storage boxes in which I've drilled holes on the bottom).

Now they need to sit. They get cold, freeze, thaw and do it over again. The snow/rain waters them and drains out.

When the weather warms you'll need to start checking them. Make sure that they don't dry out - you may need to water them. Instead of than pouring water on delicate seedlings, set the pots IN some water.

When your seeds sprout and seedlings start to get too big for the containers and/or you are past the risk of frost, open the top of the container. They can stay in the containers until your ground is ready for planting. You should wait until they have TRUE leaves before planting out (a number of websites offer great pictures of seedlings with their true leaves).

Last note - if you're seedlings are uncovered and you have risk of frost, you'll need to cover the little guys or risk losing them. If you've kept your containers in milk crates or storage boxes, simply cover them with a sheet/tarp for the night. I like the milk crates because I can just stack them up and use one sheet to cover the whole shebang! Don't forget to UNCOVER them the next day or you'll fry the little guys!

For the exact measuring, latin name knowing, planning gardner, this is STILL a great option for starting seeds with plenty of opportunity to do it "your way". For example, many people keep spreadsheets listing the date they sowed the seeds and note the date of germination and calculate the rate at which seeds germinate.

The above was a brief and simple explanation of wintersowing for the lazy gardener. There are FANTASTIC resources and information available from people with much more experience. All that I know I learned from them at http://www.wintersown.org/ and http://forums2.gardenweb.com/f orums/wtrsow/

Learn more about this author, M Tyler.
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