by Fleur Kinson

Created on: December 12, 2008   Last Updated: December 13, 2008

Blessed with the Adriatic's most accommodating natural harbour, Brindisi has long seen the coming and going of the world's ships, from ancient Greek triremes to the sleek modern yachts of Arab millionaires. In between, a million steamers and ferries have linked this south-eastern tip of Italy to the world. A map from 1872 shows dotted lines radiating out from the port to Costantinopoli', Indie', Egitto' and Giappone'. No wonder then, that the food in this lively and much underrated Italian city shows more than a hint of the exotic. The world's spices and culinary ideas have passed through so often that they've inevitably become part of the local tradition. The Brindisini don't bat an eyelid when their restaurant antipasti include a scoop of curried prawn risotto and a clutch of anchovies marinated with star anise and juniper.

The same intricate harbour that brings the wider world to Brindisi has, of course, also always bestowed it with superlative fish and seafood. Innumerable fishing boats of every size jostle amongst the mighty battleships, stout white ferries and snazzy yachts that romantically glide in and out of Brindisi's calm and sheltered water. They land their glistening catch on the pale harbourside cobblestones, and the silver bounty is quickly whisked away to local pescherie and ristoranti. Excellent fish is obviously a big feature on restaurant menus in Brindisi. Domestic cooks, meanwhile, churn out gallons of tasty 'ciambotto' (fish soup) and mounds of 'tiella' a traditional dish of rice, potatoes and mussels whose similarity to paella (even in its name) is a legacy of Spanish contact with this venerable port city.

But just as much as the sharp, fresh taste of the sea, the rustic taste of the land is a central characteristic of Brindisi's cuisine. For all its bustle and prosperity, Brindisi is still a very small city with only 90,000 inhabitants and it quickly melts at its edges into lushly fertile countryside, full of growing foodstuffs lapping up the sunshine. Some of Puglia's most appealing rural landscapes surround Brindisi, and the area sprouts a high proportion of Puglia's estimated fifty million olive trees. 'Collina di Brindisi' oil enjoys DOP status, and is wonderfully fruity with a hint of spice and just enough bitterness.

The supreme climate and rich soil round the city creates ideal growing conditions for more than just olives, though. You can't fail to be wowed by the brightly coloured bounty of giant, glossy fruit and vegetables piled

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