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In my youth and early adulthood, when I used to collect mussels fresh from the rocks at low tide, it was occasionally possible to have the mussles from sea to pan in less than an hour, but certainly always that same day. Although I am fully aware that this is a privilege and luxury that most people do not have, the advantage I had here was that I knew beyond all doubt that the mussels firstly were fresh, and secondly, that they had come from a safe, clean beach, free from any risk of pollution.

If obtaining mussels in this fashion, there are a few rules to follow before cooking them. As in all cases, we must only cook the ones which are clearly alive and have undamaged shells. Any mussels which are open should be tapped firmly a few times with a fingernail or on a hard surface to ensure they close. If not, discard them immediately. It will also be necessary to steep the mussels for a short time in fresh water (half an hour is more than sufficient) to allow them to expel any sand or other granural impurities. They should next be scrubbed thoroughly in more fresh water and the strands of "beard" removed by gripping them firmly between the thumb and forefinger and pulling them in one sharp motion towards a hinged end of the shell.

If buying mussels fresh from what should be a reputable fishmonger or supermarket, the beards will usually have been removed for you but the test as to whether they are alive or not still very much applies.

I am of the opinion that serving cooked mussels in an overly elaborate sauce tends to detract from the fresh flavours of the shellfish. I therefore like this simple way of cooking them - which is my adaptation of a very common method - which enhances rather than overpowers their flavour.

In a large pan, put a tablespoon of olive or sunflower oil and bring up to a gentle heat. Add one very finely chopped, small white onion and two very finely chopped cloves of garlic and gently heat through for a couple of minutes, stirring frequently and well. Add to this one pint of fresh fish stock and half a pint of white wine. (Tip - use a cheap wine here. Using an expensive wine in this fashion is simply a waste of money.) Bring up to the boil and simmer gently for five or even ten minutes to reduce slightly and enhance the flavours.

Add two double-handfuls of (closed) mussels with two teaspoonfuls of freshly chopped basil (or even parsley) and cover the pan. Shake the pan to coat all the mussels in the cooking liquor (though not too vigorously!) and leave for about three minutes.

Take some slices of crusty bread and rub both sides well with a cut clove of garlic. Toast under a hot grill.

Remove the mussels from the pan with a large slotted spoon and immediately discard any which have failed to open. Place some mussels in soup bowls to serve and with a ladle, scoop up some of the liquid only cooking liquor, pour it over the mussels and serve with the toasted bread slices.

Learn more about this author, Gordon Hamilton.
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