by Shannon Nichols

Created on: November 14, 2008   Last Updated: December 07, 2011

The best cheeses are made on the farm. They are often made using traditional breeds of cattle that were carefully selected for centuries to make cheese. Recipes are often traditional. The process has been repeated over and over again on farms for centures.

Milking chores start first. The cows are brought in from the pasture and fed. They are bedded down and the stalls are cleaned one more time. While the wash starts the cheese making crew arrive to start their day.

The boiler is turned on and the wash vats are starting to fill. Soap is measured and a sanitizer is added to the water in the cheese vat. Everything is cleaned. Walls, tables, press, vat, hoops... the steam rises and the windows are opened a bit to let some of the steam out. After everything is draining, the hose comes through the wall from the milk house and is attached to the feeder valve on the vat.

Milking starts and the water bath in the side walls of the vat are heating up. Adjustments are made based on room temperature, milk temperature as it comes out of the cow and the starting temperature of the milk for cheese making. A portion of the milk is taken out and a culture is added to that milk. Once it hydrates it is added back to the vat of warming milk. Milking stops and the hose goes back to the milking side of the wall. The temperature is adjusted and the milk is let to settle. Time depends on the recipe.

Rennet is added and time noted. After 10-15 minutes the milk starts to coagulate. It starts to look like pudding made from a box. Once you insert your finger into the center of the vat, it just starts to move off your finger. Note the time and multiply by a factor. For most cheeses, like Cheddar and gouda, it is a factor of 3. For example, if it takes 10 minutes to start to coagulate, then multiply by 3 and you know it will take 30 minutes (or 20 more minutes).

After renneting is done, check for clean break. Insert the finger at a 45 degree angle and lift tip of finger slowly. It should break cleanly, like a firm custard. Cut using curd harps into pieces, wheat to pea sized depending on the recipe. Let the curd sit. It needs to take a break for 5 minutes.

Start the cook phase by moving your hand along the wall of the vat. You are trying to wipe the curd mass on the side of the vat that did not break cleanly during the cutting phase. This is important to remember or it bakes on during the cook and is harder to clean later. Slowly hunt for large pieces. Only stir fast enough to keep it floating

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