by Naomi Rubine

Created on: November 14, 2008   Last Updated: June 19, 2010

Comparing the great Buddhist centers of Southeast Asia the Temples of Angkor (Cambodia) and the pagodas of Bagan (Burma) is a bit like mixing apples and oranges, or more apropos to the sub-tropics, mangoes and durian.

While travel to Angkor Wat has increased enormously in recent years, the less-frequented temples of Bagan offer the visitor an alternative that is equally impressive.

The structures and surrounding terrain differ greatly in size, architecture and ambiance, but in both cases, most of the monumental places of worship were constructed from the 11th to 13th Centuries. Bagan, with its more than 2,200 pagodas remaining out of an original 5,000, is nestled along an eight-mile curve of the Irrewaddy River. The terrain is desert-like, sprinkled with dry greenery, which springs up after the heavy summer rains.

The presence of Burma's military regime has discouraged many travelers from crossing its borders, but those who do venture forth are greeted by the most gracious residents, famous among Southeast Asia travelers for their extraordinary hospitality. The generally disliked Burmese leadership would seemingly produce a population that is anything but overflowing with kindness and love. A heavy-handed government, which has kept The Ladyas the democratic idol Aung San Suu Kyi is knownin virtual bondage for over 18 years, rules with the proverbial iron hand. And yet, a visitor to the Golden Land can remain almost oblivious to its politics. As noted, the people themselves seem to belie the notion of absolute oppression. The general populace of Myanmar, predominately Buddhist, is a shining example of how not to seem downtrodden.

Though many people go to Burma just to see Bagan, Bagan is not just a tourist attraction. Those who live in nearby Nyaung U or New Bagan frequent the pagodas for devotion and inspiration; the Burmese come from all over the country. Locals go just to sit under the stars on a quiet evening; it is one of the most peaceful spots on Earth.

Perhaps the most extraordinary of Bagan's main temples is Ananda, known primarily for its four 9.5 meter standing Buddhas. Vendors crowd all of the temples, hawking their wares in the long entry ways leading to the main room. One can buy paintings, lacquerware, bronze bells and gongs, wood carvings and dozens of trinkets. Bargaining is an important part of the process, as these seasoned vendors go for broke; competition is fierce. As opposed to Angkor, where one is warned not to step off the beaten path

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