by Shawn Connelly

Created on: November 11, 2008

I haven't reviewed a lot of Stevens Point Brewery's beers, but this one made the list, in part because of the attractive artwork on the bottle label depicting St. benedict of Nursia - a late 5th century monk famous for his 'rule of St. benedict' - seated at a table and reading from an old tome by candlelight. Though the packaging doesn't specify, I'm operating on the assumption that this beer is basically in the 'winter warmer' style category. Interestingly, this beer has a distinct Belgian influence in the nose and palate - perhaps a nod to the Trappist monasteries of Belgium famous for great ales and for following the 'rule of St. Bemnedict.'

Here is my review of this unusual winter seasonal beer from Stvens Point Brewing Company in Stevens Point, Wisconsin.

The beer pours a clear, deep crimson color with a thin off-white head that dissipates quickly and leaves only spotty lacing in the glassware. The nose is a surprise. This beer is considered (I surmise) to be a winter warmer, but it smells more like a fruity Belgian-style dubbel albeit with a somewhat lighter body. Caramel, dark fruits, raisins and figs are prominent - the dominant note being an afore-mentioned estery yeast aroma, however. Slight spicy notes are detectable as well, though I suspect no actual spices were added although the packaging (again) doesn't indicate. A very fruity nose indeed.

The palate is dry and fruity with a distinct bitterness that occasionally borders on tart. This character is more like overly-roasted or scorched malt than something fanciful like a wild or lactic yeast strain. This isn't overly offensive, but it does detarct from the over all quality of the beer in my estimation. Incredibly estery on the palate, this ale is more like a "dubbel light" than a winter warmer in my estimation. The packaging does mention noble hops, but they're quite well hidden and not apparent in the nose or in the flavor profile. This is definitely a malt-heavy beer, but suffers from some shortcoming that manifest themselves as having a diluted quality.

The body and mouth feel is just too light to support the flavors this beer is trying to achieve, I think. Ample carbonation leaves the beer all the more dry in the finish, but does little to compensate for the thin, watery body. The label doesn't tell me the ABV of this beer, but I'd suspect it to be on the very low end for a winter warmer - maybe 6% or thereabouts. This is an 'okay' beer for the season, but not something to go out of your way to find. This beer strikes me as one that could be quite pleasant if it were improved in a couple of vital aspects - particularly the thin body and slightly acrid off-flavor. Boost the grain bill and make this one a somewhat bigger beer and then we've got something! Having said that, though, this isn't bad and not a drain pour beer by any means. I give it kudos for effort.

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