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Begin with comfortable shoes, a good map and a few snacks in your backpack. Paris offers a feast of sights and sounds from sophisticated exhibits to down-to-earth people watching in magnificent parks.

The quays along the Seine are always a good place to begin. In the 5th arrondisement, stroll through the Muse de la Sculpture en Plein Air. Created in 1980, it is literally an outdoor garden planted with twentieth century sculptures instead of flowers. Along the way, you'll see large boats anchored to the quay, homes for those who choose the river life, with bicycles aboard and outdoor seating and plants. Their address is enviable.

All along the quay, Parisians and visitors take a rest in the sun or read beneath the full trees. You'll see tour boats pointing out the Notre Dame cathedral and L'ile St. Louis. Each Sunday, adjacent roads are closed to auto traffic, yielding their fast roadways to leisurely cyclists and roller bladers.

Speaking of roller blades, bring yours to join the Friday evening crowds that breeze down the rue de Rivoli with police escorts leading the way. Every level of skater is welcome for the 10 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. night skating that attracts hundreds of participants from throughout Europe.

Summer in Paris serves up a number of free, inventive celebrations. Several beaches along the banks of the Seine welcome sun worshippers. At the same time a giant outdoor screen at the Parc de la Villette delights cinema fans with free movies from all eras. Be sure to check the Paris tourism website for calendars, locations and recommendations.

The Fete de la Musique is held each June with concerts presented throughout the City of Light. At every square, on corners and in courtyards, you will enjoy every kind of musique from a chamber quartet at the Place Dauphine to African rhythms in front of the Notre Dame. All free and all delightful.

July signals the celebration of Bastille Day, much like the American 4th of July. The French pull out all stops on July 14th with grand military marches and flyovers to celebrate the onset of the Republic. Every July 14th, Paris comes to life with free events in honor of democracy la franaise.

Finally, the annual Quartier d'Et is resplendent with presentations of music, theatre and dance by international performers. Once again, the sites are spread throughout the city in the gardens and even at the ancient arena, Arnes de Lutce.

Other wonderful outdoor places to loll and people watch include the magnificent Tuilleries gardens,

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