Bangkok, known locally, in Thai, as Krung Thep Nakhon, is a large, vibrant and frenetic city. It has a fascinating history and retains much of its beautiful architecture, making it one of the most important destinations on any keen traveler's lifetime itinerary. My experiences of Bangkok, in May 1992 were, however, rather traumatic after getting caught up in a student uprising.
I was on one of the last flights into Bangkok, before all flights were cancelled because of violent protests erupting in the centre of the city. I knew nothing of the ensuing riot as I enjoyed the delights of bars and restaurants in the notorious Patpong district. My girlfriend and I set off back to our hotel in a little tuc-tuc taxi, came round a corner and found ourselves in the middle of the action with unarmed student protesters on one side, on motor bikes or standing with banners and the army on the other side with guns. I didn't know what was happening, nor what had preceded it, but water cannons appeared to have been deployed and live ammunition was being fired actually into the crowd and not just above their heads.
A bullet whistled past me and hit a protestor who was standing nearby in the neck. I still have vivid memories of the young man in a white T-shirt which turned instantly crimson, slumping onto and being supported by the people either side. Our driver didn't hang around to see how it would all turn out and he expertly negotiated his way through the panicking crowds into a smaller street and dropped us at an Irish Karaoke bar to wait until things calmed down. I gave him the equivalent of an extra few dollars and he seemed extremely pleased with the tip, despite the fact that he may have saved our lives.
Several hours later we emerged from the bar and found our way back to the hotel, where we were advised to stay inside for a few days. After just one day of being confined to the hotel we ventured out, but the ominous sight of soldiers with guns lining the streets convinced us to make it a short excursion. Local residents came up to us and tried to describe what had happened to them the previous day and how many people had been killed.
A coach arrived at the hotel the following day and most of the backpackers staying there were bundled on to it and we found ourselves on our way to Chang Mai, in the north of Thailand, where the violence was rather more contained. We chartered an elephant and driver and headed into the jungle for a week or so of trekking, by which time the whole affair had blown over.
There was a similar flare-up in 2006 and this does highlight the importance of being cautious when in foreign countries, to check the political situation before you go and avoid large protests. I would like to visit Bangkok again and get a better experience of the wonderful architectural and cultural wealth of the city in a calmer political climate.