by Erin Hackney

Created on: October 25, 2008

Nothing is more frustrating to spend your time and money creating the perfect aquarium only to have your fish come down with a case of Ich/Ick.

Ich/Ick is the fish version of a cold, except if left untreated it will quickly become fatal. Just like a human cold, it's highly contagious and will infect the other fish in your tank quickly. Ich/Ick also known as the "white spot" or by its technical term Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is caused by a protozoan parasite. These parasites spend most of their lives inside a fish underneath the skin. They are protected by a white cyst, which appears on the fish's skin, hence the nickname "white spots".

There are a number of ways you can lessen the chances of Ich/Ick occurring in your tank. Monitor your water temperature carefully, never let the water get too cold. When shopping for fish take the time to observe the tank and the other fish in it. Look for lethargic fish or signs of white spots on fish, plants, or rocks. Never buy fish from a tank containing other dead fish. Buy fake plants and if you choose to buy real plants then buy from tanks that contain plants only. If possible quarantine your new fish for 10- 14 days. That's not usually an option so make sure you take the time to acclimate your new fish to your tank before you add them. Place the closed bag containing your fish in your tank. Allow the water in the new bag to mirror your tanks temperature. Then slowly add a little of your water to the new bag. In a couple hours add the new fish, using a net, to your tank. Never, ever dump the new fish's bag of water into your tank.

In addition to the ever present white spots on the fish's skin, you may also see the fish rub themselves against rocks or plants. Depending on the severity of the case, fish will also begin to exhibit gill damage and you may even see the fish gasping. Fish can also show a loss of appetite, clamped fins, or become lethargic.

Ich/Ick is most often caused by the introduction of a contaminated fish or when the temperature in your tank drops lower then normal temperatures. Some fish, like the Clown loaches, are more likely to contract the disease. In order to treat and cure your fish you have to cure the tank as a whole. This can be done in a couple ways, the fastest by increasing the temperature in your tank to a maximum of 28C and 82F. There is also a variety of medications you can put in the water, most often commercial versions of Formalin and Malachite Green. Most commercial pet stores and aquarium shops sell products to treat Ich/Ick. Protozin and Maracide are two popular name brand products. You can also add small amounts of "aquarium salt" to your water but this is potentially dangerous and should be done with extreme accuracy and care. Salt treatments are most effective on hard water fish. Soft water fish will not handle salt as well so do your research and way the pros and cons of all treatments before you chose one. Most websites will prescribe 1- 5 tablespoons per 5 gallons of water.

No matter what treatment option you choose, it should be continued until your tank and fish have been symptom free for a full 3 days. Don't be persuaded by claims of faster cures, this parasite cannot be contained and killed in less time. If treated quickly and correctly your tank and fish should recover in 6-7 days.

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