by Francis Jock

Created on: September 21, 2008   Last Updated: May 03, 2012

Chances are that if you are a homeowner you have a sump pump installed somewhere in the basement or crawl space beneath your home. They serve only one purpose: pump out any water that may seep into the basement before it can rise to the point it can cause problems. These unsung heroes of home protection usually go unnoticed until they fail to work. Then they have to be replaced, a task which is relatively easy and shouldn't take more than half an hour.

Sump pumps come in two different models. The conventional or older type of pump has its electric motor mounted on a pedestal above the pump and away from the water in the sump pit. Submersible pumps have become common, as well. These pumps have a switch mounted in a float assembly which turns the pump on and off with the rise and fall of the water in the pit.

Both types of sump pumps have three connections. The first is the electrical connection, which come in the form of a three-wire plug that connects to an outlet placed at least 4 foot above the floor or ground level. The outlet should be a ground fault interrupt, properly rated for the current (amperage) of the pump's motor.

The second connection is a plumbing connection located at the base. It is usually a 1-1/4 inch plastic fitting. The fitting at the pump's base should have a backflow check valve installed in order to prevent water from flowing back into the pit after it has been emptied. You may find that a replacement pump will not include a check valve, so you should be sure to check the box or the sales people. If a check valve of the right size is not included, you will have to purchase one.

The third component is the hose or pipe that connects the pump to the drain line. This may be a flexible plastic hose, or a solid plastic pipe. If it's flexible plastic, an adapter and a clamp will attach it to the check valve. If it's a solid pipe, it should have a threaded adapter connected to it. Just twist the pipe and the check valve, adapter, and pipe should all come apart. Note that you may have to purchase a replacement section of flexible pipe. This type of pipe is susceptible to pin holes, so you should check it closely before reusing it.

In order to remove the old pump, begin by unplugging the unit from the outlet. Then remove the pump from the sump pit. Next, remove the flexible pipe, and the check valve. The replace sump pump is installed by reversing the procedure. Be sure to follow the instructions given by the pump's manufacturer.

If you have a solid discharge pipe, you may have to cut through it in order to remove it. This is not a problem, as there are rubber pipe joiners that you can purchase for a few cents to restore the connection. If you need assistance, you should always talk it over with your favorite hometown hardware store sales people. They are experts in these matters the advice they offer is free.

Finally, lower the new pump into the pit, plug it into the outlet and add a few buckets of water. The pump should kick on when the float reaches the preset level and drain the pit completely. On pedestal models, the water level at which the pump kicks on is adjustable. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions to determine the proper setting for your insallation.

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