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Buenos Aires is such a wonderful city that, after a short trip one South American summer, I decided to stay for 2 years. I've learned about the culture, procured a nice Argentine accent by learning to "sh-" my double l's and y's, and most importantly, I have eaten a lot of steak. For me, the culinary aspect of Buenos Aires is the most exciting and interesting. This is not to say that Buenos Aires does not have an amazing night life or cultural event such as museums and shows. But for me, I fell in love with Buenos Aires through the beef.
Argentines are proud of their beef because it is some of the highest quality grass-fed beef in the world and because of the culture that gave rise to the beef. The Spanish first brought cattle to Argentina in 1536. Because of the dry, grassy plains of the Pampas, a large area south and west of Buenos Aires, the cattle had free roam and multiplied quickly. After South America declared their independence from Spain, the Spanish left their large herds of cattle on the plains, and the gauchos took over herding. The gaucho, an independent herder riding high on his horse with wide baggy pants, silver belt, and long-bladed knife, is central to Argentina's history and mythology. Like the American cowboy, the gaucho was thought of as a lawless man who roamed the green plains, gambled, and drank in local taverns scattered amoung the Pampas.
Independent gauchos were slowly replaced in the early 20th century by large landowners who fenced and marked their land, and like the cattle, the gaucho was confined to herding these large estancias. A body of literature appeared that romanticized the gaucho culture and sadly proclaimed the end of the independent gaucho. The gaucho now is remembered and revered for his independence, generosity, and simple courtesy in such stories as Jose Hernandez's epic poem "Martin Fierro" and Ricardo Guiraldes' novel "Don Segundo Sombra." Today, many of the estancias across the Pampas allow for tourists to enjoy gaucho dances and poetry, and the gaucho culture lives on through these experiences.
But back to the steak... Argentines enjoy theirs thick, chewy, and well-done. When I first came to Argentina, I could not imagine why a person would want to ruin a piece of meat by cooking it totally through. But the Argentine way does have its benefits. A long meal full of chewy beef is incredibly satisfactory. The meat is cooked slowly over a wood fire that enhances the smokey taste. The cut of beef most enjoyed by Argentines
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