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check, then the other, and then back to the first cheek again. (Some people even kiss 4 times in the north, but this generally considered an affectation.)

In the south of France on the French Riviera, 2 kisses - one for each check will do. If you're not sure of the kissing rules for the area you're in, just watch - and if you're inexperienced in the art of cheek kissing, let the other person make the first move. Hugging is generally reserved for family members or very close friends, and then is only done as part of the kissing process.

If you are lucky enough to be invited into someone's home, to share a meal or enjoy an aperitif, be sure to bring a small gift for your host and hostess. (Flowers and a bottle of wine, for example, are just fine.)

Don't be surprised to find that a typical meal means that you spend 3 or 4 hours at the table - time flies, especially when the conversation is as delightful as the food and the wine.

If you're do eat out, you'll be missing out on a great experience if you don't try at least one "real" French cafe - preferably a place where the locals go to eat, rather than one that's set up for the tourists.

I've eaten at some tiny cafes where the restaurant is a family affair - Monsieur is the host and can recommend exactly the right wine to go with the meal. Madame may be the chef, and don't be surprised if, rather than given a menu, there is only one entree, with your choice of one or two side dishes. (Not only will the portions be generous, the food will be on par with anything you could eat in a 4 star restaurant - except that it will be real "home cooking" and you'll get to enjoy the best of the local specialities. And often for much, much less than you'd pay for trumped up nouveau cuisine!)

A good way to find these restaurants is to strike up a conversation with someone who lives in the village or city you're visiting.) For example, almost every village in France has a central spot where the locals go to play boules in the afternoons and on weekends. (Boules is a game that most French people are passionate about - and watching it is almost as fun as playing!)

If you've got the time, stop and watch a match - and feel free to ask questions of the spectators - this is a great way to get to know someone and also find out the best places to eat, shop and even stay.

If you're in a large city, (like almost anywhere in the world these days), you'll notice most people will not make eye contact with you, and don't smile. (This can be a little disconcerting if you come from a small town, where everyone knows everyone else and smiles and says hello.) So if you're ignored, or looked at a little strangely if you're smiling and saying Bonjour to people, don't take it personally. Good places to make contacts and get to speak to people are at the local parks, in grocery stores, butcher shops and the fishmonger's, and, as mentioned before, at the local boules spot.

If you're in a small town, people are generally much friendlier and will smile and say hello back. And again, going to the local open-air market or shopping, or even local cafes is a good way to get to know the locals here.

I think a big part of how well you are treated in France, like any other experience any time you're traveling, comes in large part from your own expectations, behavior and attitude. All you have to do to have a wonderful time is to treat people the way you'd want to be treated, and be respectful and pleasant. I believe if you look for the good in people, you'll usually find it, especially when traveling in France.

Learn more about this author, Cheryl Antier.
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