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One of the cleverer moves on the part of Orlando's municipal tourism bureau was to select a swampy wasteland about fifteen miles away from the city, transform it into a semi-developed strip of condescending kitsch, and tell everyone who happened to wander down it unawares that they had discovered "Orlando." We locals call it International Drive, where most of what typically brings people to Orlando can be found, and so most people spend a lot of time and money there. Then they leave, thinking they have seen everything, feeling vaguely dissatisfied on the drive home.

I'm not saying that the parks aren't fun. If you've never been, they're worth the trip, but know that the crowds will make you sweat to get your money's worth in a single day, especially if you're visiting during the summer or winter months. Beware: you can only ride the teacups so many times. For this reason the typical local goes there rarely. They and more self-aware travelers tend to congregate either in Downtown Orlando (the real one) or in the Maitland/Winter Park region, which make up for their lack of roller-coasting teacups with several traits that are uncommon to the state of Florida: sophistication and not costing a thousand dollars.

Of course, there are other reasons why taking the quieter route in O-Town can be advantageous, especially if you're coming during the fall or winter months. While peak season for the theme parks is summer, the wintertime comes in close second. The weather is more temperate, usually resembling a continental fall, so people come in droves to take advantage of the climate. The "Winter Wonderlands" of Central Florida - Winter Park, Winter Springs, Winter Garden and so on - are so named to attract some of the tourism that Disney and company draw from up north. Despite this, it is rare to find travelers outside of International Drive - a shame, given what the metropolitan and residential areas of Orlando have to offer.

If you are a hip young professional, then Downtown Orlando can be a fun diversion. Lake Eola serves as the epicenter of an array of bars, restaurants and clubs, but also lights up in its own right during the daytime hours with frequent free concerts and festivals in its Social Pavilion. Points of interest include Church Street Station, I-Bar, and The Social for indie rockers, plus Club Antigua for the Santa Monica crowd. Or for a little bit of culture, try the Carr Performing Arts Centre or the Church Street Metro Gallery. Last but not least, you can

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