by S. August Abbott (TheCaretaker)

Created on: August 08, 2008   Last Updated: November 24, 2008

Do you really want to pay for those costly products to get rid of urine smells and pet odor? It can add up, just in case you haven't noticed. In the last 6 months I've had about 300 cats. If you think you have a problem with purging the pee, believe me, it could be worse!

I own an animal rescue organization. You didn't really think I personally owned 300 cats did you?

OK, you've tried all the commercial products right? The cat is still pee'ing where it shouldn't, the smell is still overwhelming and you can't help but think it's either the fur ball or you.

Take heart, you can do this (purge the pee) and you may not need any of those products at all.

Getting rid of the pungent cat urine odor left behind in carpets, on walls, in bedding, drapes or furniture is going to be very difficult and I can't pretend it won't. If the cat catches even a hint of it's previous marking, it'll likely mark again. Removing the odor as perceived by humans isn't enough since our scent receptors are about 5 million to a cat's approximately 200 hundred million!

When I find a cat has marked furniture, usually getting rid of the furniture is the only solution. The scent is likely deep in the cushions, the frame and padding. Just for general cleaning, carpet areas and to at least attempt furniture, if you purchase commercial products, be sure it has 'enzymes' in it (low cost is fine). You can make your own solution using 1/2 and 1/2 borax and baking soda (1/2 cup each to a pail or dishpan of warm water), mix it very, very well. If you use this in a carpet cleaning machine, it MAY clog it, so use your own judgment.

To treat carpets you'll need to pull it up and make sure you get to the pad and floorboard/concrete underneath. Since cats tend to mark in corners and at edges, this may not be as difficult as it sounds. It sure depends on your cat's choices.

Another pet safe and effective solution is washing areas down with straight (or slightly diluted) white vinegar. Make sure the area is safe for any of these treatments of course. After doing any of these things you need to let the area thoroughly dry, use fans if necessary, and then you'll probably have to repeat at least once more (sometimes 3 or 4 times). Remember, the cat can smell what you can't.

If you have to send anything out for dry cleaning, specify that there's pet urine in it and ask for special attention. You may need the item cleaned several times in order to remove the traces of odor (remember, the pet can perceive nearly 200 MILLION more than you can). Now, the real issue is why? Make sure the cat isn't suffering from an infection (urinary or otherwise). Once this is ruled out by a vet, it may be a matter of litter box placement, the type of litter or how clean it's kept. Those are the most common causes for a cat to choose other places.

Also, if there's a 2nd (or more) cat(s), it could be a territorial thing. Try placing a litter box just for this cat's use in the area the cat uses inappropriately. When they use the box, start moving the box, a couple of feet every day or every other day, toward the area you want it to be in. It may also be prudent to cover the previously used, inappropriate area with a plastic tarp (not a decorators moment, but then neither is the pungent pee).

Your patience will pay and your attention to your companions possible health problem may be life saving.

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