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At the north rim of the Grand Canyon, the North Kaibab Trail starts down gently, though a forest of white fir, ponderosa pine, and quaking aspen. Soon enough, the trail reaches a series of switchbacks, and then widens out briefly at the Coconino overlook above Roaring Springs Canyon. Nearly another mile down the trail is a tall twenty foot tunnel, the Supai Tunnel, carved in the living rock. There's potable water here, and toilets.

Beyond the tunnel, there's a fine view, and the vegetation changes. Now the trail traverses a scant forest of pinyon and juniper. It's steeper and more spectacular, and finally leads to a view of a cascading waterfall on the other side of the canyon. Soon afterward appears a turnoff for Roaring Springs.

Roaring Springs is lush, with cottonwood trees and greenery. Although it's unlikely, in spring and summer the Western Fairy Slipper, Calypso bulbosa, a rare pinkish orchid with a single leaf may appear. From April to August white-petaled prickly poppy, Argemone arizonica, may appear in the talus, the loose piled rock, in this area. The main trail continues down, passes a caretakers residence, and then crosses Bright Angel Creek. Plants like prickly pear cactus, an edible opuntia, and yucca now dominate. In another mile and a half, the trail reaches Cottonwood Campground. Note that it gets hotter the farther the trail goes down the canyon.

Cottonwood Campground is 6.9 miles from the trailhead. However long it took to get here, it will take about twice as long to return to the rim. There are cottonwood trees here, although there's no really dense shade. There are great views. About one and one half miles below Cottonwood is the turnoff to Ribbon Falls. The side trail is very short, and Ribbon Falls is worth seeing. Water cascades from 40 feet above onto a bed of moss. There are maidenhair ferns, golden columbine (aquilegia chrysantha), and scarlet monkeyflower, a mimulus. A sketchy trail leads behind the falls. Back on the mail trail, there's an ascent, annoyingly, for about a quarter of a mile.

Then the trail turns down again, and runs along the creek. There's a damp stretch, and then the trail enters the amazing stretch known as the Box. The trail passes between towering Zoroaster Granite and Vishnu Schist walls for four miles, twisting and turning beside the creek, and crossing it four times. The shade, at first welcome, becomes almost oppressive. It's dark, and claustrophobic, and feels like a transplanted remnant of a prehistoric world. Soon enough though, the trail opens out, with only three fourths of a mile remaining to welcoming Phantom Ranch.

The North Kaibab Trail is well maintained and not too heavily traveled. Mule trains do use it, and they have the right of way. The trailhead is two miles north of Grand Canyon Lodge, on Arizona Route 67. There's a parking lot, and you'll see mule pens near where the trail begins. Cottonwood Campground is not crowded, although reservations are necessary. Bright Angel Campground, just below Phantom Ranch, is well used. The trail is 28 miles round trip, and it's tough. The elevation change is more than 5,800 feet. It's best to allow 2 days each way, and to start back up as early in the day as possible. The North Kaibab is the only trail on the north rim that goes from rim to river.

http://www.nps.gov/grca/ planyourvisit/upload/North_Kai bab_Trail.pdf
http://www.nps.go v/grca/planyourvisit/backcount ry.htm
http://www.nps.gov/grca/ naturescience/upload/plant_gui de_1.pdf

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