Historical Hawaii: Maui
by Kathy Stemke
When I stepped off the small plane that took me to Maui, a beautiful young lady welcomed me with a necklace of fragrant flowers and a traditional island greeting. That same sense of beauty and peace accompanied me throughout my stay in this island rich in history, breathtaking flora and fauna, exotic foods, endless beaches and unusual wildlife.
Legend tells us that "Maui," the demigod, reached down into the ocean and pulled up the Hawaiian Islands. He then lassoed the sun god, and held him captive until he promised to move slowly through the sky, providing daylight and warmth for the islands. If you're skeptical of that story, I have another. Five million years ago, an undersea eruption created two volcanic mountains. The first, Mauna Kahalawai of west Maui, is now great for hiking, and exploring in bamboo forests, black sand beaches or watery caves. The second, dormant volcano Haleakala, looks like the moon with its smooth, undulating volcanic rock surface. A highlight for visitors is to bike down from the top passing through clouds and exotic landscapes.
We're not quite sure when the first men set foot on Maui. Recent archaeological evidence suggests that the Tahitians found this paradise about 700 AD. For centuries, Maui was divided into separate kingdoms that fought for control. It wasn't until the 15th century that the island was united by King Pi'ilani under a single family. During this time, Maui experienced peace and prosperity.
About 400 years later, Kamehameha the Great, invaded Maui and defeated its last king, Kahekili, in the L'ao valley. The site of this battle is called Kepaniwai, which literally means "stopping the waters," because the bodies of slain warriors were so numerous, they temporarily damned the stream. Today, a tourist attraction, this valley is a monument to these soldiers and the sacred burial ground for many of the royal families.
The missionaries, who arrived in the 1800's, served as advisors to the royal family; established schools and churches; produced Hawaiian newspapers; fought against certain sinful Hawaiian customs; and paved the way for the production of sandalwood, and sugar. As the sugar industry grew, immigrants from around the world were recruited to work on the plantations, hailing from places as far away as China, Japan, Puerto Rico, Korea, the Philippines, Portugal, Russia, Germany and Scandinavia. That's why Maui is called the melting pot of the Pacific.
Whales were not plentiful in Hawaiian waters at this time, but Lahaina served as a safe harbor from which ships would set off to hunt whales in the North Pacific. The town provided a place to anchor, restock supplies and get medical attention. Today, whale hunting has given way to whale watching, snorkeling, deep-sea fishing and sunset cruises.
Lahaina remains the bridge to Maui's past. Lahaina's historic homes, buildings, churches and waterfront look much the same as they did when it was a whaling village. One of the town's most striking landmarks, a giant banyan tree that shades two thirds of an acre and is the largest tree of its kind in the Hawaiian Islands, has ancient roots. The giant branches that re-root themselves are romantically lighted, and are a favorite rendezvous for lovers and friends alike. The most popular attraction is "A Walking Tour Through Lahaina's Past." The journey opens with a chant at the sacred Hauola birthing stone near Lahaina Harbor, then travels along the pathways of the past revealing the story of the historic town, with stops at a prison built in 1853 to jail rowdy sailors, the Old Lahaina Courthouse, the (missionary) Richard's House, and the Wo Hing Temple Museum where you can view some of Edison's first silent movies.
Maui has been voted "Best Island in the World" for nine consecutive years, and is the only place you can get a "just mauied" T shirt. But beware, because a good friend of mine went there thirty years ago on a vacation and according to her, she's not coming back anytime soon.