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How to give a bob haircut

by Rachelle de Bretagne

Contrary to popular belief, the bob haircut isn't simply a matter of straight lines. There are many variations on the theme, and it is essential to take into account the shape of the face and length of neck area of the client and to talk with them about their ideas. The reason for this is that bob haircuts demand different approaches, and by having a clear idea of what the client wants, the hair stylist can succeed in using their skill, and the clients expectations, hand in hand to satisfy and to produce an individual style which suits the wearer.

The styles of bob include the following:

*Back angled bob.
*High back bob.
*Feathered bob.
*Bob with bangs.
*Straight bob.

Although the cutting methods are very similar and the process of cutting starts at the same place, deciding which the client wants is essential to success. The back angled bob takes the hair at the back of the head shorter than the front, though in a much more feminine way than the more razored high back bob. Feathering is used to flatter and to shape lank and thick long hair, which loses its shape very easily, making this the ideal alternative for the woman with excessively thick hair.

A bob with bangs, means that the client wants a cut which leaves the hair long and accentuated at the sides, while a straight bob may be preferred by the more practical person who has little knowledge of self styling, and just wants an easy style to brush into place.

TO START THE CUT.

Working on wet hair is essential, since this allows the stylist much more control of shape than when working on dry hair, where fly-away ends may escape cutting. Wash, the hair, rinse it thoroughly, and even add nourishment to the hair if it seems out of condition.

Placing a towel or protection around the shoulders, start to get the equipment needed together and at easy reach. This should include:

*Scissors.
*Razer.
*Clips to part hair sections.
*Comb.
*Brush.
*Hair dryer.

Comb the hair to get rid of tangles and so that it sits flat. Section off the fringe area, and pin this out of the way. Taking sections of hair around the crown just above ear level, comb these neatly making partings which divide the areas of hair. Twist the hair, and pin to the top so that the bottom area of hair is left easy to work with and free from the confusion of added thickness.

Cut the hair at the nape of the neck working out towards the sides, holding it neatly in place with a comb, and using this 45 degree angle to cut. At this stage, straight cutting is required to get the shape of the cut. Working out towards the sides, you can adjust the overall length and remember that with thick hair, which needs more feathering, the bottom layer will actually be a little shorter than layers to follow, so that the hair falls nicely into the nape of the neck when finished.

Little by little release the twists of hair across the back of the hair, and cut these to length. Working from the back towards each side of the hair, hold the hair between the fingers and cut into the hair you are holding, giving a feathering effect, rather than a straight cut. This helps the different layers to fall smoothly and creates a beautiful flow to the style.

Vertical cutting.

At the crown, start to comb out vertical sections of hair, and holding these between the fingers, cut into the line of the hair to feather the style. Work around the head from back to front, feathering small sections, until the hair sits nicely.

Checking for length.

Here, hold the hair on both sides and slip the fingers through the hair to feel if the length is perfectly matched on both sides of the head. Comb through the sections cut, to ensure uniformity of cut.

Fringe area.

Remember that each client has their own idea of how a fringe should sit. Talk to the client. Most people these days do not want a uniform fringe, though some do. With heavy hair, a great difference can be made by vertical cutting and feathering, which thins the whole fringe and allows it to look lighter, taking away that heavy look.

Throughout the stages of the cut, ask the client if they are happy with length, as this can be adjusted as you work, achieving the style of bob desired. Start with longer bangs and work these shorter, until the client looks satisfied. Many clients like their hair lighter looking and not close to the face, while others prefer a smaller fringe to give their facial features more framework.

When the hair is cut, blow dry from back to front, curling the style under, and ensuring that the front of the hair looks great. Here, adjustments can still be made to finish that style. The bob cut is classical and a favorite of many ladies who want ease of styling, and is a great cut for the office, casual wear and sleek enough for classical dress. Variations make it an interesting cut, that allows individualistic finishes to suit everyone considering the cut as their perfect style.

Helium, Inc.
200 Brickstone Square Andover, MA 01810 USA