If you're looking to visit Oxford, the first thing you're going to notice in the guidebooks is that they all talk about "dreaming spires." While the architecture of the city is certainly impressive, you're going to need a little bit more information to visit one of the most beautiful cities in England.
Lodging:
Obviously, where you stay will depend on your budget, your lifestyle, and your goals for your visit. If you're young and single and looking to meet people, there are a few hostels in the city. I've stayed at the Oxford Backpackers hostel, and it's clean, friendly, and close to the train station and to the center of town.
For a quieter visit, there are countless bed and breakfasts just outside the city center that offer a civilized, traditional visit. The Nanford Guest House, for example, is a ten minute walk to the city center; when I stayed there I was absolutely charmed by the shabby bedrooms and traditional furnishings (the showers, however, leave much to be desired).
For those looking for a less conventional lodging, several of the colleges will let you rent a room for your visit. While the rooms are often small and cell-like, and the showers questionable, the atmosphere of the college is unlike anyplace else. Coming through the large wooden doors that sequester the college from the town and walking across the courtyard before ascending the uneven and winding stone stairs to your room will give you a taste of life in one of the world's first "college towns."
For travelers more concerned with comfort and amenities, there are several hotels in the city proper, including the very posh Randolph.
Food and drink:
While Oxford looks like a traditional English city, its gastronomical offerings are without parallel. If you're looking for a quick, hearty, affordable lunch, the covered market hidden in the center of the city is the place to go. There you can sample traditional pasties and meat pies, find every kind of sandwich imaginable, or pick up some cheeses, fruits, and olives for an impromptu picnic. If your tastes are more exotic, you can find Japanese, Mongolian, Malaysian, and Indian food, along with traditional pub fare, organic cafes, and French bakeries.
Obviously you can't visit England without enjoying a relaxing mid-afternoon tea. In Oxford, stop at the Queen's Lane Coffee House or the Mitre for a low-key cuppa, or the trendier Grand Caf or Caf Loco (the latter offers stunning views of Christ Church College). For the full traditional high tea experience, you must visit the Randolph; you'll relax in cozy, mismatched armchairs in the shabby-chic sitting room as waiters bring tiered tea trays bearing an impressive selection of sandwiches, pastries, and, of course, scones with cream and jam.
The nightlife in Oxford varies from traditional pubs to thumping clubs, so you have endless options if you'd like to grab a nightcap. For a charming, unique Oxford experience, visit the Turf Tavern, one of the oldest pubs in the city. The tavern boasts several outdoor patios, and is hidden behind the walls of the city; you have to know which alleyway to take from which side street to get to it, but the search is worth it (email me if you'd like more details!). For a bit of history along with your pint, visit the Eagle and Child (known to locals as the Bird and Baby). This pub was a favorite of local literary greats J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis, as they and other authors would meet to share drinks and ideas. For a livelier experience, the Grand Caf is small enough to feel intimate, but its high ceilings and mirrored walls keep it from ever feeling crowded. This is the place to order a fancy drink with the fun and hip locals.
If you're craving something sweet at the end of your evening, George and Danvers caf is open till midnight, and boasts some of the best ice cream I've ever had. Try the "Smelly Bee" which is a delightful lavender honey flavor, or the refreshing green tea ice cream. They also serve pastries and coffee for those chilly evenings.
History and culture:
Once you're rested and fed, you'll want to experience some of this city's amazing history. Start with "The Oxford Story" on Broad Street; after purchasing your ticket, you'll be ushered to a ride that looks like something out of a children's amusement park, and strapped into a replica of an old student's desk. A set of headphones regales you with history and entertaining stories about the history of the town and the university. While the ride is slow-moving and a little bit cheesy, it is definitely entertaining and absolutely informative.
The center of any university is its library, and you'll definitely want to take a tour of the Bodleian with its impressive collection that extends miles into the city in underground tunnels, and covers thousands of years of learning.
The city also boasts several museums, including the Oxford Museum and the Museum of the History of Science, and the Ashmolean Museum, all of which are located in the center of the city. However, my favorite museum is a 5-10 minute walk outside the city center; tucked behind the University Museum of Natural History, the Pitt Rivers Museum is a cluttered, crowded, dusty collection of absolute treasures that range from mask collections, musical instruments, and weaponry, to such curiosities as a tiny glass jar in which a witch is imprisoned. The museum even provides free activity booklets for younger visitors that help them find some of the museum's more interesting artifacts.
Exploring:
Oxford is a city that you'll want to take in on foot. There are several walking tours of the city that you can take, and these are a great way to orient yourself with the city's layout and history. However, there is no better way to spend a sunny summer afternoon in Oxford than to grab a sandwich and head out to wander. While most of the universities are closed to visitors most of the time, Christ Church meadows provide a great spot to take a long walk around the cow fields, set up a picnic on the grass, or stroll along the Cherwell River. Magdalen College will let you in for a small fee, but the grounds are worth the price of entry. This college boasts a beautiful deer park, a hidden garden tucked away at the very end of the trails, and, of course, beautiful buildings.
The Botanical Garden is another great place to bring a book and a picnic; for a few pounds you can spend an afternoon wandering around the lush gardens and exotic greenhouses, or just finding an empty bench or patch of grass and lazing away the day.
For those who prefer a more active vacation, you can rent bicycles and explore the surrounding countryside. Within the city, you can rent a boat to go punting on the Cherwell and Thames rivers. Bring a bottle of wine for a romantic afternoon.
Arts and Entertainment:
Last, but certainly not least, you'll want to take in some culture while you're in town. Oxford's entertainment ranges from the casual and intimate like the Sunday-morning Coffee Concert recitals at Holywell Music room and all of the other recitals you'll see advertised throughout town, to shows at the large concert hall on George Street (my favorite being the Queen cover band if you're there in August you MUST check them out). The Oxford Playhouse puts on impressive performances of plays both obscure and famous, most recently a terrifically funny production of "The Thirty-Nine Steps," while the open-air theater at the recently opened Oxford Castle is the local place for Shakespeare plays.