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Marquetry is an artistic form of woodworking that is enjoyed by many. An age old practice, it is the forming or creating of pictures using various wood veneers, or other mediums glue to the surface of substrates. Often parts are cut in layers, or packets, on a scroll saw to ensure a tight fight between the different parts.

The difference between marquetry and parquetry is the thickness of the wood being used, and the fact that the parquetry parts are typically thicker and rounded over on the edges. Like a child's puzzle.

The difference between marquetry and inlays is that the marquetry forms the entire design, and inlays are accents let into the surrounding area.

Marquetry is made using either homemade veneers, commonly up to an 1/8" inch thick, or commercial veneers which can be as thin as 1/40 on an inch in thickness.

When cutting the mating parts, forming packets of the different veneers allow the pieces to be cut together, resulting in perfect fitting parts. The blade in the scroll saw is held at an angle, which is determined by the veneer thickness. Commercial veneer is cut at around an angle of 18 degrees. Thicker veneers use less of an angle. Cutting in this fashion helps to hide the joints.

Cuts that don't come to the edge of the parts require a small hole to be drilled next to the cut line. The fact that the veneer is cut on an angle means that the holes can be drilled in the waste section of both pieces. To do this, make certain the back round part is on the top, in the infill piece is on the bottom. This eliminates the task of filling the holes.

A common blade for marquetry is a number 2/0, but finer blades, down to 6/0 are also available. The drill bit used for the 2/0 blade is a number 68. This is slightly larger than a needle, so as you can imagine it is difficult to fit the blade through the hole. It helps to countersinking the back side of the holes, and even draw a circle around it on the back side. Fitting such a fine blade through these tiny holes are almost impossible for many people, without these steps.

When forming the packets, or layers to be cut, try to orient the grain of the parts to emphasize the design. Sand shading the parts can add to the 3D effect obtained. Sand shading is done by inserting the veneer parts into hot sand, causing the to get scorched. The longer they are dipped in the sand, the darker the shading. This requires a hot plate, some fine sand, tweezers with which to hold the parts, and scraps to practice on. A thermometer is helpful as is makes it easier to duplicate work done at different times. The shading only requires the piece be dipped into the hot sand for a few seconds. Testing is necessary to get good results.

Very complicated designs are possible with practice, and are only limited to the person doing the work, also known as a marquetarian.

Learn more about this author, Lee Jesberger.
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