Ferrets, often a source of humour to us Brits, are a much under-rated hunting partner. Perhaps it's the stereotypical image of a slightly dim poacher keeping ferrets in deep trouser pockets - and suffering injury to his nether regions as a result - that means they're not taken seriously. Or maybe it's the lack of success novices have with their ferrets, losing them at the first trip, that makes them seem less reliable and hence less desirable for regular hunting, but in the right hands, a ferret is as reliable as a terrier and far less likely to get stuck down rabbit holes.
1. Choosing your prey
Ferrets are commonly used to hunt rabbits and other animals that live either in burrows or enclosed spaces, such as rats. Naturally, much depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you're an amateur trying to get shot of a serious rat infestation, don't even think about using a ferret: get the exterminator out and let him deal with the problem. By the time you've shelled out for a ferret, built a run, a hutch for sleeping and then got your new friend accustomed to you and its new environment, you're far better off getting the professionals in to do the job. On the other hand, if you happen to be partial to eating some wild rabbit, but are not so keen on shooting or trapping, ferrets are a good longer term bet.
2. Preparing the hunting trip
Assuming you've decided to hunt rabbits with your ferret, you're well advised to recce the area you've chosen for your hunting some time in advance. Head to where you're planning on hunting in the late afternoon or early evening and watch carefully from a distance (use binoculars if need be) to see how many entrances and exits there are to the warren, and make a rough note of where they are.
Once you're confident you've got the lay of things, make sure have either enough nets or noose traps (either is fine) to cover all the holes you've identified, plus half a dozen more for those you find on the day that weren't apparent on your recce. On the day of the hunt, give your ferret a small meal before you leave, and take a snack to feed it once you reach the hunting ground. Feeding the ferret beforehand is important because, should the ferret be too hungry, it will simply kill the first rabbit it gets its teeth on and then spend a long time satisfying its hunger and then, in all probability, sleeping off its meal. This is the main cause of lost ferrets. But its important not to feed your ferret so much it just wants to sleep when you reach the burrow. Make sure you keep a snack for after your hunt to reward your ferret or, if you're going to be gutting the catch on site, make sure you keep the liver, kidneys and heart of the rabbit to give to your ferret.
3. Hunting with the ferret
The ferret's job is not to catch the rabbits for you: it is, quite simply, to ferret them out and force them to the surface from their warren below ground. The nets or noose traps should catch the rabbits for you, which is why it's important to find as many of the burrows as possible - there's a law of ferreting that says leaving one hole uncovered guarantees the rabbits will exit that way, rather than at the holes you've prepared.
Once you've prepped every possible hole, take your ferret from its transport, whether that be the inner pocket of a Barbour jacket (the traditional transport medium of British gamekeepers and farmers, but generally only used with experienced and trusted ferrets) or a standard pet carrier. Look for a burrow that seems to be in regular use - grass will be close-cropped and there may well be fresh droppings near the entrance - and place your ferret next to the hole. Nature tends to do the rest at this point, as the smell of fresh rabbit should be quite enough to encourage your ferret down the hole.
Now watch the exits, both for fleeing rabbits and your beloved ferret. While there are those that like the idea of dispensing with traps and nets and trying to shoot the rabbits as they try to escape, there are two down sides to this technique. The first is that you need to be an extremely good shot and you never know quite where the rabbits will pop up: several moving targets and no predictability, so even shotguns aren't much use for this. The second is that I've known several people shoot their ferret by mistake: easily done if the ferret doesn't find a rabbit on the first trip down the burrow. And, should you need a third disadvantage to this method, it's that the noise will scare off any rabbits in the area and you might as well pack up and go home if you don't catch one.
For those using noose traps and nets, there are a couple of issues to address. One is that you need to position them carefully over the holes in order to snare your prey. Nets should be carefully pegged, and noose traps set in the natural flight path from the burrow to maximise the chance of catching the rabbit. The second is that neither of these methods is necessarily fatal to the rabbit, so you have to be prepared either to release the bunny into the wild if you're really just doing it for the experience of hunting with your ferret. Or you have to be prepared to kill the rabbit, either with your bare hands or, say, an air rifle at close range.
4. Getting your ferret back
If you're lucky, once the rabbits have left the warren, your ferret will saunter back out and you can put it back in its carrier with no problems at all. Yet even the most experienced ferret can need coaxing, and that's where dealing with your catch early can be of assistance. Sitting by one of the holes the rabbits have used to exit the burrow, either slit the rabbit's throat and spill some blood near the entrance or, if you're happy to gut the rabbit on the spot, get on and do that instead, but remain near to the hole: picking a hole that's upwind of the rest of the burrow will help carry the smell of your catch to the ferret, and it should be relatively easy to tempt it back out. But you should also be prepared for the fact that the rabbits may yet find that one hole you've not trapped or netted (look for areas of long grass and check carefully) and you may not have caught anything. In these cases, taking some chicken livers or a similar treat, and placing them near a hole instead, should be sufficient to get you your ferret back.
5. Last hints
If you're not hunting on your own land, you should always get permission from the owner before venturing out with your ferret. Fortunately, there's no shortage of farmers wanting to control rabbit numbers, so you may be able to set up a regular arrangement. Failing to get permission may well result in prosecution for trespassing or poaching.
Finally, remember that hunting with ferrets is not an exact science: the rabbits may have a secret exit you've not discovered, your ferret may simply not feel like hunting, it may kill a rabbit down the hole and not come back, and the rabbits may escape all your traps and nets because you've failed to secure them adequately. It doesn't matter. There will always be other rabbits, as well as another, less-known consolation: a well-treated ferret is an affectionate animal and, as you sit on the hillside stroking that silky fur after the hunt, you'll simply enjoy the peace of your surroundings and the companionship of your hunting partner.