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ST. JOHN'S OFFERS THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS!

Unless you are a person who has the physical stamina to endure and enjoy the extra-crisp bite of a harsh winter, oftentimes accompanied by gale-force winds, I suggest you visit St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador, in the late summer, early fall.

If your knees or ankles are not strong, I would recommend renting a vehicle, unless, of course, you've taken your own onto the ferry from Nova Scotia. That can be a bit of an ordeal in itself, but it's an adventure, just the same. St. John's, like that of San Francisco, is famous for its steeply hilly terrain, so walking for long periods should be restricted to the flatter streets.

Its most famous landmark, which overlooks the heart of the city, is Signal Hill, where Guglielmo Marconi sent the first wireless trans-Atlantic message in 1901. Although there are buses that will take you to the top of the hill, my fifteen-year-old son and I decided to make our way up on foot. It was well-worth the effort, but I don't think the hill-dwellers really appreciate this encroachment on their privacy. From specially-designed telescopes outside the historic Cabot Tower, we could almost catch a glimpse of Ireland across the vast ocean. You really do feel as if you are standing on the very edge of the earth from this vantage point; it's absolutely breath-taking! On the way up (or down) the hill, you can take a trip through time in the Johnson Geo Centre, and you can even take away a piece of "The Rock" with you via the gift shop in the museum or the tower itself, although the souvenirs don't come cheaply. A bit further down the coast, at its most easterly point, is the Cape Spear lighthouse, which is an equally enchanting experience, both indoors and out.

In the downtown core, there is a 6,000-plus-seat sports/entertainment complex known as Mile One Centre, where local teenagers (and young-at-heart adults like me) can enjoy live music from local and international talent, alike. I was introduced to the music of Sum 41 in that arena, which band now has both an American and Canadian connection in the form of Derek Sibley and his equally famous musical spouse, Avril Lavigne.

For those who prefer the more intimate and congenial atmosphere of a pub, George Street is chock-full of charming taverns, boasting a wide variety of live entertainment, including traditional Celtic music and modern progressions of the same. This street is also closed to traffic for a summer family festival each year.

When I visited

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