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The history of the tuxedo

Unusually for an item of clothing the official history of the tuxedo can be dated exactly. It made its first official appearance at the Tuxedo club autumn ball of 1886. Its design has been credited to Pierre Lorillard IV, a member of the family that had developed the Tuxedo park area into a prime hunting and fishing destination for the wealthy. Pierre's family developed the whole Tuxedo area into what would today be considered an exclusive resort destination during the late 1800s.

One of the main features of the "resort" was the Tuxedo club and the first annual autumn ball was held in October 1886. At the time men's formal wear consisted of the traditional tailcoat, but Pierre broke with tradition by having a coat made without tails, a short jacket. Some speculation surrounds his inspiration for this. Some say the English Prince of Wales at the time inspired him, and others maintain that it was simply a matter of comfort. It is true that the Prince of Wales was a leading figure in European society at the time, and possibly his influence did spread across to the States. Other theories suggest that his fox hunting jackets inspired him.

Pierre himself didn't wear the newly made short jacket to the ball, but his son Griswold and several of his friends did. No doubt because of the status of the families in the area this was not viewed as a massive fashion disaster, but rather as a witty and exciting new trend. This first outing of the tuxedo featured scarlet satin lapels, and Griswold was definitely interested in making a memorable appearance at the ball.

By 1889 the tuxedo jacket was allowed as appropriate wear to the dress circle of the Metropolitan Opera, fixing it firmly in the realms of appropriate evening wear for special occasions. Tailless coats like the tuxedo would have been far more practical for such seated occasions leading to a rise in its popularity. The tuxedo rapidly became a symbol of wealth and elegance.

This symbolic place of the tuxedo continued through the great depression, and Hollywood was soon dressing its leading men in them on film. This firmly placed the tuxedo in public consciousness as correct attire for formal occasions.

Nowadays the tuxedo is the classic choice for formal occasions, giving instantaneous style and elegance to any gathering. Individuality is still allowed even in this formal dress by careful choice of lining, lapel and kerchief.

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