by Nick Nutter

Created on: June 09, 2008

Cordoba
Strategically placed at the highest point of navigation on the River Guadalquivir, Cordoba started life as an Iberian settlement. In 152 BC the Romans established Corduba Patricia as a colonia. After 27 BC the city became the capital of Baetica. Following the Romans, Cordoba was occupied by the Visigoths. This proved unpopular and a revolt against the Visigothic King Agila around 554 led to a short period of local independence that came to a sudden, and bloody, end in 572. The Arabs arrived in 711 and Cordoba soon replaced Seville as the capital of Al Andalus. It is the period between 711 and 1236 when the city was retaken by Fernando III of Castile, and the architectural remains from this period, that attract the tourist.

Most make a beeline for the Mezquita, and little wonder. It is the third largest mosque ever built. Dedicated in 786, the original structure was extended and enlarged over the entire period of Arab rule, each king trying to outdo his predecessors. It is now a 'forest' of columns. The earliest section contains original but re-used Roman and Visigothic columns and, in the north west corner a free standing Visigothic altar. The Mezquita is unique in Spain because it not only survived the re-conquest, it was considered so magnificent that between 1523 and 1607 a Renaissance style church was built within the structure. The church is now the repository for the ecclesiastical treasures which is worth a trip in itself. But back to the Romans.

The guidebooks tell you there is little remaining from the Roman period and promptly send you to the Mezquita but if you know where to look there is enough left to give you an impression of their city. For instance, near to the Hotel Tryp Gallos at the junction of Paseo de la Victoria and Calle de Concepcion is situated what was the Roman west gate into the city. On the Paseo side is a Roman cemetery. In the centre of the city itself is a temple but do not be fooled. This is a reconstruction. Only two columns are original. However the renovations are using the original foundations and floor plans.

Leaving the old city through the south gate you will then cross the 250 metre long Puente Romano. It is worth stopping halfway across and looking up and down river. You will notice islands and channels that appear man made. You will also see the remains of, and in one case, a whole, huge, waterwheel. This is part of the extensive system, started by the Romans and perfected by the Arabs, that allowed the surrounding

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