by Robyn Tara Jones

Created on: June 03, 2008

Choosing between fresh or dried herbs is like choosing between sex or chocolate. They are both scrumptious and enjoyable in their own way. While fresh herbs have a fresher, tangier flavour, dried herbs are more resilient and earthy.

I developed an appreciation for herbs when I moved away from my parents about four years ago. After moving in with my boyfriend, I had to cook on a regular basis. Luckily, both of my parents are accomplished culinary artists, so I had the pleasure of learning by osmosis. Both Mom and Dad used a lot of dried herbs, except in the summer when they planted fresh basil, oregano, dill, thyme, savoury, and sage. The aroma of lemon-laced grilled salmon with a generous bouquet of fresh dill still lingers in my olfactory memory.

Although I know that both types of herbs add nuance and character to just about any dish, I only found out the true difference when I started to experiment in the kitchen. After planting my first herb garden I realized that I had to use way more than just a handful of basil leaves in my tomato sauce to bring out the plant's lively flavour. Without that substantial amount, the acidic and assertive tomato overwhelms the gentle basil.

I usually infuse olive oil with the leaves and a few chopped cloves of garlic in a skillet before adding pureed tomatoes. Yet the herbs do not stand up to the luscious red fruit. I often settle for just a hint of basil in my sauce and resign myself to making pesto.

Perhaps I am over-zealous and want too much of that lovely herb or perhaps my palate is a tad under-developed, but I've learned that fresh herbs do not contain half as much punch as their dried counterparts.

Yet, fresh basil has a far superiour flavour than dried basil. The lovely ripe leaves impregnate my senses with intoxicating delight the way the dried version never could. Its flavour has no contest in a salad, sandwich or on its own. And pesto is just not possible with the dehydrated stuff.

However, rosemary is good either way. It tastes and smells more intense when dried, but it has a comforting soily dimension when fresh. Driven by the example my parents set for me, I usually use rosemary with potatoes, but a mixture of both kinds.

Dill is absolutely fabulous when fresh. I love it with fish, in leek and potato soup or in a mesclun salad. It has such an enlivening taste when plucked straight from the garden that it makes the dried stuff taste like saw dust.

I prefer dried thyme and savoury to fresh because the flavour is more pronounced and is so irresistible when paired with olive oil on sizzling grilled vegetables. I am sure their fresh versions have their merits, but they are hard-pressed to win me over.

Because each type of herb has its charms, I could never choose between the two. When searching for flavour intensity, I opt for dried. If subtle nuance is what I desire, I succumb to the allure of the fresh variety. Either way, both types are delicious and make any dish more palatable and memorable.

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