by Nick Nutter

Created on: May 27, 2008

Toledo The City of Three Cultures
To say that the city of Toledo in La Mancha, 65 kilometres south of Madrid is unusual is an understatement for there are many reasons why that statement is true. Mention Toledo and people automatically think of swords. The first time visitor to Toledo is likely to be on a coach trip and in the city for one day. They are likely to leave slightly puzzled, wondering what all the fuss was about. They will have seen any number of shops selling swords, suits of armour, knives, spears and shields. They may even have noticed some of the distinctive black steel and filigree gold bowls, plates and ornaments for which Toledo is also well known. They will certainly have noticed the fine city walls and the narrow winding streets but will they have discovered anything about why Toledo is where it is or even why it became famous for its steel work? The answer is probably not. This does not however seem to worry the Japanese coach trips that between them buy enough swords to equip a small medieval army.

For some reason Toledo is hiding all its lights beneath bushels. The information provided by the tourist office is superficial at best and non-existent at worst. Normally a mine of information, Toledo's museum is poor as regards exhibits and information. This lack of information is reflected in other guidebooks and publications. The first time visitor's sum of knowledge about the city is liable to be low when they arrive and not much higher when they leave. So, back to basics.
Toledo is approached by road from the north, south, east or west. From any direction the first views of the city are dramatic. A huge granite buttress that the Rio Tajo or Tagus, whichever you fancy, failed to erode millions of years ago rises from the surrounding flat plain. The river itself, thwarted by the granite, has channelled out an ox bow canyon around two thirds of the rock with the open end to the north. Two old bridges traverse the canyon, one at the east side, the other at the west with two newer bridges on the east side. The well-preserved city walls that entirely surround the city still look as though they could ward off any besieger. Delving into the history of Toledo reveals that they in fact never did ward off any besiegers, the city always gave in, but more of that later.
Approaching from any direction but north you will find yourself on a ring road around the outer edge of the canyon. There are a number of good hotels around the ring road. They will have

• 1
• 2
• 3
• Next Page >>