by Tina Hartley

Created on: May 16, 2008   Last Updated: November 16, 2011

My first tip - don't believe everything you read. This article is the exception, of course. I installed drywall in new construction and home remodeling for 18 years. I've seen it all. Many clueless homeowners, in an understandable effort to save money, tackle this project on their own. Unfortunately, many of these would-be drywall installers don't take the time to research first.

It's not that there is a lack of excellent advice out there. The problem is there is an equal amount of incorrect advice. Take product labels for instance, the majority of those labels are on those products for two reasons: #1 to help sell the product and #2 to provide all possible warnings to guard against a potential lawsuit. Who has the most to gain? Brief instructions that come with a product are not the best source of advice for the newcomer.

Now, let's get down to business. Plan your project carefully. When at all possible, eliminate non-factory seams. The factory seams are the long edges completely covered with the paper layer. There are beveled in order to allow room for the joint compound without showing an obvious rise in the finished product. The short end seams (referred to as butt joints in the trade) are not factory edges. The more of those joints you have, the more work you have trying to hide them.

In a 12 x 12 room the preferred material is 4' x 12' x 1/2" sheets of drywall. All commercial projects make use of the longest sheet possible. But, and this is a big but here, commercial drywall installation often requires the removal of a window, at the minimum, to get the drywall into an upstairs room. This is usually not a viable option in a DIY project. Often, drywall is slid through open wall studs because they can't make it around a tight corner. So keep this in mind while you're planning. Plan B is 4 x 10 or 4 x 8 sheets.

For normal installation 1/2 inch thickness is used. There are other options such as 5/8" FC (fire rated). Firecode, or fire rated board is rated by burn time. It has a slower burn rate than regular drywall and is required by most building codes in any high risk areas. Examples would be the ceiling and any walls adjoining the house in an integral garage, or walls between apartments, etc.

MR board has a green color. It is moisture resistant and the best choice for areas with moderate humidity. MR board is often used for porch ceilings in temperate climates, but it is not recommended in climates with severe temperature variations. Drywall (especially

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