by Rhonda Piraino

Created on: May 14, 2008   Last Updated: October 09, 2011

Haircolor maintenance depends upon several things, whether you receive color in the salon or you're a do-it-yourselfer. Here's your basic guide.

Temporary

Temporary haircolor merely stains the hair shaft. It doesn't need hydrogen peroxide to fully develop, but it usually has an alkalizing agent and can build up over time with repeated applications.

Temporary haircolor is sometimes referred to as a "try-me" because of its inability to actually change the hair structure. Used properly, this color can be a one-shot application. But if you like what you see, wait at least 4-6 weeks before reapplying to avoid a flat, non-reflective color buildup.

Semi-Permanent

Ready for a little more commitment? Semi-permanent haircolor is the way to go. This category is often the least understood chemically by both professionals and DIYers alike.

Semi-permanent haircolor needs hydrogen peroxide to activate dye molecules and to help any alkalizing agent(s) in adhering color to the hair shaft. These colors are usually not strong enough to decolorize natural pigment, but can do so with repeated applications or when using heat to expedite the process (which I don't recommend).

As with temporary color, it's preferable to wait 4-6 weeks to reapply; however, it's equally important to ONLY touch up any regrowth. If your mid-shaft to ends need attention, it's much better to use a temporary color to merely stain the hair.

Permanent

Permanent haircolor isn't a 4-(well, 9) letter word! When done properly, your hair really suffers no great damage and, in fact, is absolutely necessary if you want to lighten your natural color or cover white hair.

This color needs hydrogen peroxide for the same reasons as semi-permanent hair color. The difference is in the amount of ammonia or other alkalizing agent.

The presence of ammonia in permanent haircolor creates an even more alkaline environment. This opens and swells the hair shaft, decolorizes natural pigment, and oxidizes artificial pigment, allowing that pigment to attach and become "permanent".

Since your natural color is affected, you'll begin to see regrowth depending upon how far you stray from your natural color. If the color is within 2 levels lighter or darker than your natural color, regrowth is usually visible within 4-8 weeks. But if your new color is 3 or more levels different than your natural color, or if you have a high percentage of white hair, you could begin seeing those "roots" peek through in as little as 2 weeks.

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