Belize - A Hazardous Heaven
Belize itself can be a heaven on Earth. The country possesses some of the world's last tracts of native rain forest which team with orchids, parrots, toucans and exotic animals. The extensive barrier reef of coral islands is a Caribbean paradise now developed for the sun and sea loving European tourist.
Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America. Belize City, the only large metropolis, doesn't give a good first impression. It is a ramshackle, dirty, river port for yachts and speed boats that transport tourists to the outer reef islands, called Cayes.
The city is periodically flattened by hurricanes so there are no substantial buildings of note. Basically the town consists of dilapidated wooden houses with suburbs crisscrossed by open drains. This city of 80,000 people is quaint and interesting, but dangerous for the tourist to wander around.
But all is relative. After returning from some outback Guatemalan villages, Belize City seemed to me, momentarily, quite modern and hygienic. Living costs are expensive. The Belizean dollar is pegged to the US dollar at the rate of two to one. Belizean currency is worthless outside the country so is best avoided. However, Government fees imposed at border crossings have to be paid in Belize dollars which is a regulation that provides employment for the ubiquitous money changer.
Belize, formerly British Honduras, shares its borders with southern Mexico and eastern Guatemala, and faces the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea. Today it has a small tourist industry based principally on diving and snorkeling off its coral islands, and ecotourism catering mainly for North American and European nature lovers using jungle lodges in the hinterland.
Originally this region was an unwanted piece of real estate. It was avoided by the Spanish navigators because of the shallow waters and string of dangerous reefs. In the 1600's the area became a haven for British pirates. Their knowledge of the barrier reef provided them with safety from pursuit. The larger islands gave them a base from which to raid the Spanish galleons loaded with treasures leaving from Mexico and southern ports.
Piracy changed to logging as a major industry and the jungles soon gave up much of their logwood and mohogany. The British declared the country their colony of British Honduras in 1862. In 1981 it became the independent nation of Belize.
Belize is a good starting point for going to the Mayan ruins of Tikal in nearby Guatemala, and of Copan in Honduras. There is a popular daily bus service running from Chetumal, Mexico, southward through Belize via Belize City and then SW into Guatemala ending at Flores, which is the stepping off point to visit the fabulous ancient Mayan city of Tikal.
A trip to tropical Caye Caulker is a must even if you're not into swimming and diving. Caulker township is a series of guest houses spread along sandy lanes amid the coconut palms. Boaties vie for business to take visitors to the barrier reef. Speed boats leave from the moorings close to the swing bridge in Belize City. You skim across the shallow blue Caribbean Sea dotted with mangrove islets and coral islands studded with coconut palms. Within an hour you are in an exciting new world.
To explore the hinterland the DIY traveler, or backpacker, must come to grips with the bus system. The heaven for old US school buses is Belize (or Central America in general). This recycling of buses is admirable and fine if you are child-size or an Indian. However, most Europeans come in large or tall sizes and will suffer some discomfiture from the confined seating.
The southern coast road is the route to Guatemala and Honduras. The seaside town at road's end is Punta Gorda, or PG to the locals. At PG you can join ecotours of the interior to visit the jungle or stay in Indian villages. Finally, you can brace yourself for the exciting speedboat ride across the estuary to Puerto Barrio in Guatemala, and so on to Honduras and the ancient Mayan city of Copan. The secret to survival on these water taxis is to sit on a cushion well aft under a spray-proof covering and hope for the best. Latecomers get put up front and end up like sodden drowned rats.
The hazards of using local transport can be avoided by joining a package tour; in fact 20% of Belize tourism is from bird watching groups coming from North America and Europe. These small groups are whisked away from the airport to stay at well-appointed jungle lodges, especially in the Mountain Pine Ridge region around San Ignacio. Besides bird and animal watching there is hiking, horse riding, exploring caves and canoeing.
The enigma of Belize is that there is much to attract the tourist and much that doesn't. The tour operators cleverly succeed in their business by hiding the latter. The brave lone traveler and backpackers must tread warily.