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Buenos Aires, the tango city, is proud of its parrillas and macho males.

I always make sure to stop over at a weekend.

On Sunday I head for the San Telmo district to enjoy the fun at Plaza Dorego which is converted to a flea market. Tourists crowd the stalls and fill the nearby restaurants and bars. I examine the goods - old swords, revolvers, horse brasses, bolas, "mate" paraphernalia, ancient books and maps, all someone's treasures of a bygone era. A record player with a monstrous horn blares forth Caruso songs and tinky-tonk tunes.

Each corner of the plaza is reserved for performing artists. The haunting rhythm of the tango attracts me. On the pavement I watch spellbound the dancers. A slick macho Argentino entwines gracefully with a scantily-clad lady draped in red ostrich feathers. Wow! No wonder the tango was for ages frowned upon by high society in Europe. It originated in La Boca, the port area of Buenos Aires, or BA for short.

At another corner I watch a Houdini rope trickster do his thing. It takes him only a minute to untangle himself. Next a star-spangled clown amuses a group of children. Outside the Dorego Bar is an old-time musical group, a singer with piano accordion and guitarists. Elderly professional dancers invite lady tourists to try the tango. Everyone applauds. I admire the scores of oil and watercolor paintings on street display. Even the houses are painted bright colors. Sunday at Plaza Dorego is Buenos Aires at its best.

Weekdays BA is one great bustle. The narrow canyon-like streets link up the broad avenues and impressive plazas giving the city a special enchantment. The towering white Oblesco on the broad Avenida 9 de Julio is a famous landmark.

Ubiquitous black and yellow taxi cabs vie with multi-hued buses while hustling along their street racetracks, so pedestrians beware! Motorcyclists roar through the traffic with hair streaming and crash helmet conveniently held on an arm.

Necrophilia is alive and well in Buenos Aires as visiting the dead is a favorite Argentine pastime. I went to the Recoleta Cemetery where the departed rich and famous rest in ornate mausoleums the size of houses. Many visitors pay homage at the modest tomb of Eva Peron. Others go to the Charcareta Cemetery to see the tomb of Carlos Gardel, the famous tango singer and dancer.

The central city pedestrian malls of Calle Florida and Calle Lavalle have the fanciest shops and the smartest shoppers. By comparison, the average tourist might have dressed from the Opp-shop or come in from beach. Even poodles get to wear knitted cardigans!

Parrillas abound. These are eating places specializing in barbecued meats, such as steak, spareribs, chorizo, morcillo (blood sausage), even whole sides of lamb and pig. I marveled at the huge charred steaks devoured by office-workers at lunch time. Just one would keep me going for a week.

BA operates on Latin time. Morning is best forgotten. A midday siesta of two hours is common with businesses. The locals are called Portenos who look for a restaurant about 10 pm. Sunrise is convenient for finding your way home.

Buenos Aires is the most European city of South America. It is safe and friendly and full of fun loving people enjoying their city and music. It is a great place for rest and recreation on your entry to, and exit from South America.

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