by Neha Puntambekar

Created on: May 05, 2008

My first glimpse of Zagreb was on Google. I was relocating to the city and wanted to learn more about it. I stumbled on the words quaint and charming often, but I didn't realize just how true they rang till I landed here. Zagreb is almost invisible on the Croatian tourist map, but just like the country's flamboyant coastline, this city, too, is easy to fall in love with.

Zagreb revolves around the city's main square, the Trg bana Jelacica. The square is always full of people, old, young and the very young. This is the heart of the city. In the background you can see the twin spirals of the spectacular St. Stephan's Church. Right behind the main square is the colorful Dolac Market. Set up on an open roof terrace, it is a symphony of fresh farm produce, fresh fish, local arts and crafts all surrounded by haggling locals and sun burnt peasants. Dolac is a great place to stock up on Croatian cheese, olive oils and handicrafts.

The city center, known as Illica, spreads out from the Main Square, and is full of boutiques and cafes. I have spent many afternoons combing these lanes, finding bargains in the most unexpected corners. At the other end of Illica is Britain Square. On Sundays the square hosts a charming antique market.

Coffee is a very important part of the Croatian social make-up. The city is dotted with coffee shops and the Croats can be found sipping on a cup at all times. Take part in this local tradition at the Flower Square (situated very close to the Main Square): Croatia's most fashionable drop by here to catch up and be seen over coffee and beer.

If you're one for history head to the Upper (or Old) Town of Zagreb. Here within the winding lanes and old fashioned gas lamps, you'll find many of the city's prominent landmarks: the Croatian Parliament building; the St.Mark's Church, with its unique tiled roof; and the medieval Lotrscak Tower - even today a canon is fired from the tower every afternoon. From here make your way up to the shrine at Stone Gate where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared. The Old Town is peppered with art galleries, museums and old churches, as well as wonderful photo opportunities.

Past Stone Gate and down hill is Zagreb's most popular watering hole/street - Tkalciceva Ulica. These streets are marked with old world Baroque buildings. A mix-n-match row of pubs, caf-bars, restaurants, gift boutiques and even tiny art galleries are etched along the sides. Come Friday night, these tiny lanes host quite a party.

Zagreb is situated between the Medvedinca mountain range and the Sava River, which makes for great side trips. You can take a stroll up the Mountain or take a cable car ride up the slopes and enjoy the view of the city below. During the winters, the mountain offers skiing facilities and attracts a great crowd to the peaks. Another popular haunt is the Maksimir Park; this is one of the largest parks in the region, with a beautiful oak forest, five little lakes and even a zoo, which the children will enjoy.

This is also a city of museums and art. While there are over twenty-one museums, the ones you should absolutely visit are the Mimara Museum and the Museum of the City of Zagreb.

Sightseeing by the day and partying by night with lots of coffee breaks in between that's a perfect day in Zagreb.

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