by Douglas Samuelson

Created on: April 24, 2008

No -start conditions fall into 2 categories:
1. Engine will not "crank" when the ignition switch is turned to the start position.
2. Engine will "crank" but will not start.

Let us first will address condition #1. If the starter does not attempt to engage, and if no "clicking" noise is heard, the first step would be to check the condition of the battery and battery cables. If a volt meter is available, check the battery voltage at the battery. If you do not have access to a volt meter, a simple (not fool-proof) method would be to turn on the headlights and check the brightness, operate the heater blower or other accessories to determine if they are functioning normally. It is always a good idea to check the battery terminal connections at the battery. Even though they may not appear to be corroded it is possible that corrosion has formed between the battery cable terminal and the battery post (referred to as a "frost line" by many mechanics). Clean the circumference of the battery cable terminal and the battery post (on top post batteries) with a terminal cleaner or suitable tool, and the mating surfaces of the cable terminal and battery on side terminal batteries. Re- attach the cables, making sure that they are tight. Some side terminal connections may appear to be tight, but the insulating material around the cable terminal may be tight against the battery but the mating surfaces may not be in contact. Trimming away excess insulating material from the cable terminal is a temporary way to correct this condition, but cable replacement would be recommended.

If the battery and cables check out O.K., proceed to the starter. If the starter is accessible, and if it is the type with a integral solenoid, check to see if the small gauge wire attached to the solenoid is "hot" when the ignition switch is in the start position. This can be accomplished with a test light. Some solenoids may have 2 small gauge wires attached, in which case one of them should be "hot" during this test. If the solenoid is in another location such as on a fender well, the same test will apply. If the test light does not light, the problem could be in the ignition switch, the transmission neutral safety switch, the clutch safety switch, or the theft deterrent system if so equipped. If the test light lights up, the problem is in the solenoid or the starter, and replacement or rebuild will be necessary. If the solenoid "clicks and the starter does not crank, replace the starter.

Testing the ignition

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