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PERIODS OF THE KIMONO

A traditional clothing worn by the people of Japan, the kimono has a history as vast and as rich as Japan itself. The styles have changed significantly from one period of Japan's history to another, but today it is still the traditional form of clothing for the people of Japan. The age, sex and marital status of the wearer are shown in the cut, color, fabric, and decoration of the kimono. Factors including climate, life and customs of the Imperial court have seen to the development of skills in weaving and dyeing of the fabric used for Japanese clothing.

The history of the kimono dates as far back as 300 AD to the Jomon Period. The clothing of this period, as one might imagine, was very primitive and there was no distinction between the male kimono and the female kimono. The fabric used was loosely fastened and made of hemp.

During the Yamato Period Chinese settlers introduced the art of raising silk worms. The Yamato kimono consisted of two pieces, an upper and a lower piece. The upper piece had tight sleeves. The fabric during this time period was white since the Japanese had no skills or techniques for the dyeing of clothes.

From 550 thru 710 A.D. the Asuka and Nara periods saw the kimono take form and color. As sewing methods developed, the clothing became longer and wider. Clothes were now classified into the three groups of formal, court, and uniforms and the fabric color varied with the rank of the individual wearer. As techniques for dying silk were developed the clothing became more colorful. Different pieces included upper and lower garments, jackets, a front skirt, and a back skirt.

The kimonos of the Heian Period which lasted from 792 until 1192 A.D. were very beautiful as the kimono of this period demonstrated the Chinese's deep passion for artistic beauty. In order to protect against high humidity, buildings had elevated floors made of tatami mats. During this period the tradition of sitting on the floor became important in the lifestyle of the people. The clothing became larger and stiffer. Court women wore as many as twenty layers at a time. The art of layering clothing is called juni-hito and means 12 layers. The pattern, color, and layering of the clothing reflect the culture's deep respect for spirits of nature.

As the Muromachi Period was ushered in the aristocratic culture of the Heian period decayed and the Samurai gained power. The clothes were then modified from their highly artistic layers to simpler and easy to move in clothing. The lifestyle of the Samurai was more of an active lifestyle. As this period gave way to the Edo Period, commerce and industry began to be rapidly developed. The merchants over powered the Samurai and better dyeing techniques were developed. The Kimono was now made of multicolored, highly decorated fabrics that were worn in a single layer. The belt which was previously tied in the front moved to the back. The man's Kimono developed to more actively suit the male in the practice of martial arts like Aikido, Kendo, and archery.

Of modern kimono, the women's kimono are most elaborate and vary in style and design. Fabric, color, sleeve length, and the detailing as well as the style of tie is varied according to the wearer's age, social status, marital status and the time of year. The obi, or the sash tied around a kimono has many complicated styles and can take a half hour to tie.

The tradition of the kimono has evolved through out history and the fabric tells a historical story of innovation and change.

Learn more about this author, Jennifer Smith.
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